Speech syn for beige TI-99/4a

[wierd_w]

I have ordered the military tan, and the "Wood like" (as far as I can tell, it is just wood COLORED, not actual "wood filament", which has wood particles in it), which I think looked the closest matches.

 

 

[wierd_w]

Desert tan arrived..  It looks kinda.. pale. Oh well.

 

I am in the middle of printing out parts for that puzzle box, (which so far fit together a treat!), but once that completes, I will try out this fancy filament.

[Mehridian Sanders]

On 8/4/2020 at 7:06 PM, wierd_w said:

Well..  I am going to reference this thread and the dialog on color picking we just dropped in it, after about another week.

 

I get paid biweekly, and am not the most wealthy.  I should have some disposable income to drop on filament then.

 

 

An alternative would possibly be @Mehridian Sanders , who confided that he is intending to set up a filament recycler/extruder. (he intends to buy bulk PLA pellets, and fabricate filament.)

Ok the PLA I ordered arrived... I will be test printing tonight. probably take a while. Has anyone had any luck with the door? I myself am only basically a 3D Modeller. not advanced yet.

[wierd_w]

I am holding off on releasing my updated models until I am happy with them...
They do not currently implement the door, but implementing it would not be that difficult.

 

I think it could be done as a "Print in place", especially if the original type design were followed. Door actuation might be a little rough at first, but I think it could work.

[Mehridian Sanders]

On 7/9/2020 at 10:27 PM, OLD CS1 said:

I would consider one printed in wood.

ok. I will print one up. I happen to have a wood PLA. and will post the results here

[Mehridian Sanders]

On 7/29/2020 at 9:30 PM, hloberg said:

if anyone has one of these and can 3d scan it... I am VERY interested in printing one. Failing that.... i'll go look up the dimensions.

[wierd_w]

I have the bottom part printed in the "Desert Tan" PLA.

 

It feels VERY solid and good in my hands.  It should be a VERY durable part.  I had the print speed a bit too high in the initial part of the print though, so it's a bit ugly at the beveled bottom.. Been sanding it, and it sands beautifully.  The 2mm thick walls give plenty of meat to sand into to get rid of all the layering artifacts. When I have both the top and the bottom printed, I will assemble them, then sand them assembled.  That way they match. 

 

I am going to test to see if the new hole location is right.

 

 

Edit:

New hole location fits perfectly!

(but forgot to enlarge the bay the .5mm all around, so it is way too snug with the RF shield in there. It went in, but it is super tight. I dont know if I can get it back out again.)  I think just this enlargement, and the bottom part is golden.

Edited August 26, 2020 by wierd_w

[Shift838]

2 hours ago, wierd_w said:

I have the bottom part printed in the "Desert Tan" PLA.

 

It feels VERY solid and good in my hands.  It should be a VERY durable part.  I had the print speed a bit too high in the initial part of the print though, so it's a bit ugly at the beveled bottom.. Been sanding it, and it sands beautifully.  The 2mm thick walls give plenty of meat to sand into to get rid of all the layering artifacts. When I have both the top and the bottom printed, I will assemble them, then sand them assembled.  That way they match. 

 

I am going to test to see if the new hole location is right.

 

 

Edit:

New hole location fits perfectly!

(but forgot to enlarge the bay the .5mm all around, so it is way too snug with the RF shield in there. It went in, but it is super tight. I dont know if I can get it back out again.)  I think just this enlargement, and the bottom part is golden.

photo?

[Mehridian Sanders]

1 hour ago, wierd_w said:

I have the bottom part printed in the "Desert Tan" PLA.

 

It feels VERY solid and good in my hands.  It should be a VERY durable part.  I had the print speed a bit too high in the initial part of the print though, so it's a bit ugly at the beveled bottom.. Been sanding it, and it sands beautifully.  The 2mm thick walls give plenty of meat to sand into to get rid of all the layering artifacts. When I have both the top and the bottom printed, I will assemble them, then sand them assembled.  That way they match. 

 

I am going to test to see if the new hole location is right.

 

 

Edit:

New hole location fits perfectly!

(but forgot to enlarge the bay the .5mm all around, so it is way too snug with the RF shield in there. It went in, but it is super tight. I dont know if I can get it back out again.)  I think just this enlargement, and the bottom part is golden.

My gosh ... here I am ... 42 ... and still ... laughing like a 12 year old at the word " hole ".

 

man.. I'd better phone my parents and apologize for something...

 

On a lighter note, the PLA recycler/maker, has been put on hold for a bit. (like so many projects of mine) in order to learn more about 3D printing in general. I have decided to use 3D Paint to learn more. .. it's free and I already have it installed with my windows version, so far it has been easy to use and rather intuitive. I will also be trying to get my old Xbox IR sensor working for 3D scanning.

 

[wierd_w]

Photos?

Ok.

 

[wierd_w]

(dont make fun of my filthy workbench-- it's where I do painting, and stuff.)

 

@Mehridian Sanders

 

You really should get a proper 3D cad suite.  Then you have real sizes in mm or inches, get to model with fantastically more accurate NURBS models, etc.

 

I use Dassault Systemes Catia.  The educational student version works fine, but is lacking the sterolithography workbench. (I really only use it to generate .stl files, because it does a much better job than the "save as .stl" converter. The sterolithography workbench has options to set how accurate the .stl is. You can make it absurdly tiny triangle size) Others use SolidWorks (a related product, very similar, but not as powerful.)

 

 

Edited August 26, 2020 by wierd_w

[+OLD CS1]

1 hour ago, Mehridian Sanders said:

laughing like a 12 year old at the word " hole "

Potty humor never gets old.  If it does, then you are too old.

[wierd_w]

I don't have such reactions and never have had.

 

Always been a strange one like that. 

 

While that hole is definitely for screwing, it is certainly not for that kind.

[wierd_w]

The "wood" filament arrived.  Investigating the roll, I was correct- it is wood COLORED filament, not "wood mixture" filament.   Color wise, it is "Dark tan".  I will clip a section and lay it on a bit of waste material made from the "Desert Tan", and some white paper.  Give me a minute.

 

 

I find the color to be relatively complimentary, and fairly close to the "dark" accent color of the beige units. 

 

Should I print another bottom from the "wood" color for the final product?

Edited August 29, 2020 by wierd_w

[+hloberg]

5 hours ago, wierd_w said:

The "wood" filament arrived.  Investigating the roll, I was correct- it is wood COLORED filament, not "wood mixture" filament.   Color wise, it is "Dark tan".  I will clip a section and lay it on a bit of waste material made from the "Desert Tan", and some white paper.  Give me a minute.

 

 

I find the color to be relatively complimentary, and fairly close to the "dark" accent color of the beige units. 

 

Should I print another bottom from the "wood" color for the final product?

that color looks a lot like the color I painted my speech with. it wasn't an exact match but really complemented console and looked a lot better than the more yellowish beige I had previously painted the speech.

[wierd_w]

That's the same material as the base I printed (the large wast swatch that is)-- just with the flash turned on with the camera.  My upstairs is kinda low-light. 

 

The top is approaching the end of the print cycle-- at 98%.  I have mixed some black toner powder with some UV reactive resin, and will fill the lettering in with it before sanding. That should give nice bold black letters.

 

Since the top portion is many solid layers, it will take some time to finish this last 2%.  I will also have to sit the resin painted text in the sun for several hours (since it has decided to be overcast today) to cure. (I have misplaced my UV lamp)

 

The above comparison was to illustrate the contrast between the "wood" and the "Desert Tan"

[wierd_w]

The mixture of toner powder and UV resin appears to work but the text needs to be cut deeper.

 

 

 

Currently the letter groove depth is insufficient, as it is starting to sand through as I sand the surface smooth.  I will revise to make the lettering depth deeper for this purpose.

Edited August 29, 2020 by wierd_w

[Omega-TI]

Freakin Bloody Awesome!!!  It almost makes me want to get a beige TI.

[+OLD CS1]

53 minutes ago, Omega-TI said:

Freakin Bloody Awesome!!!  It almost makes me want to get a beige TI.

Oh, NOW you come around?  You wanna play a nice game of Zero Zap, too?

[wierd_w]

I am going to spend the next few days sanding on this thing, and getting it all pretty.

 

There are some pretty significant X and Y positioning issues with my printer;  I expect it is because it is a cheap chinese knockoff.  That's OK, this is intended to be a part proving exercise.  I am pretty satisfied with the models. The lettering just needs to be a little deeper now, and I should be able to release.

 

Still a LOT of sanding left to do; Been hitting this real hard with 80 grit to get the layer artifacts off.

 

Edited August 30, 2020 by wierd_w

[Omega-TI]

If you make one with TIPI/32K lettering I expect a few people will be quite happy.

[wierd_w]

Probably, but they will want the door.

[wierd_w]

@Mehridian Sanders

 

I know you are jonesing to print stuff, and I would like somebody with a printer that is worth a damn to try my models out.

To do the assembly, you will need 6 M3 brass chasis stand-offs, and 6 M3 computer case screws. (and probably a hammer to tap them into the holes before gently touching them with a (El CHEAPO!! Dont use a good one!) soldering iron to set them.

 

Here's the models in STP and STL formats, REV A. 

 

Top.stp top.stl bottom.stp bottom.stl

 

Change log:

Move top-left board mounting hole location 1.5mm to the left (toward TI cart slot side), to match position of mating hole in speech synth board

Increase cutout area in bottom section by .5mm all around so that RF shield installs easily.

Add "baked in" support material for top section

Increase text indentation depth to 1mm for reliable black resin material back-fill before sanding operation

 

 

I printed at .1mm layer height, with 2mm thick wall, 2mm thick top and bottom, and 20% infill. Supports were disabled. (You will NEVER get them out of the screw holes if you turn them on! This is why the top has baked in support model.) Print time was a little over 3 days total for both top and bottom altogether.  Your printer might print faster/better.

Edited August 30, 2020 by wierd_w

[wierd_w]

Aaand..

 

quite a bit of rough sanding later, here it is test-assembled, and mounted on my TI.

 

(still needs to be gone over with 300 grit, then 2000 grit, so it gets a semi-lustrous surface)

 

[Mehridian Sanders]

16 hours ago, wierd_w said:

@Mehridian Sanders

 

I know you are jonesing to print stuff, and I would like somebody with a printer that is worth a damn to try my models out.

To do the assembly, you will need 6 M3 brass chasis stand-offs, and 6 M3 computer case screws. (and probably a hammer to tap them into the holes before gently touching them with a (El CHEAPO!! Dont use a good one!) soldering iron to set them.

 

Here's the models in STP and STL formats, REV A. 

 

Top.stp 5.16 MB · 2 downloads top.stl 722.25 kB · 2 downloads bottom.stp 197.42 kB · 2 downloads bottom.stl 104.77 kB · 2 downloads

 

Change log:

Move top-left board mounting hole location 1.5mm to the left (toward TI cart slot side), to match position of mating hole in speech synth board

Increase cutout area in bottom section by .5mm all around so that RF shield installs easily.

Add "baked in" support material for top section

Increase text indentation depth to 1mm for reliable black resin material back-fill before sanding operation

 

 

I printed at .1mm layer height, with 2mm thick wall, 2mm thick top and bottom, and 20% infill. Supports were disabled. (You will NEVER get them out of the screw holes if you turn them on! This is why the top has baked in support model.) Print time was a little over 3 days total for both top and bottom altogether.  Your printer might print faster/better.

ok trying this out with the Wood PLA see how it turns out. Using your Settings as specified. Bottom is going to take about 12 hours 43 mins to print

 

If It goes well I will start up the print in the beige I picked up.