Mehridian Sanders Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 5 hours ago, Mehridian Sanders said: ok trying this out with the Wood PLA see how it turns out. Using your Settings as specified. Bottom is going to take about 12 hours 43 mins to print If It goes well I will start up the print in the beige I picked up. so yeah it printed a wooden ball of yarn. I will tweak the settings a bit seems like those were not good for my PLA... you using 1.75mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 (edited) Use a brim silly. You have bed adhesion type as --none-- !! Supports are the things that prop up overhangs. That's what needs turned off. Brim is easily cleaned off with a sharp knife. Yes. 1.75mm. .4 mm nozzle. Edited August 31, 2020 by wierd_w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Essentially-- When doing a 3D print-- any 3D print, the initial layer is very very important. You need to have a good adhesion to the build plate, such that thermal or mechanical stresses are insufficient for the layer to delaminate from that surface prematurely. This is where things like Brims and Rafts come into play. When making a part that has low-contact-surface|Volume characteristics (such as my bottom half of this part), mechanical forces are a leading cause of delamination. (EG, the head moving around on top of the deposited prior layer produces enough friction that it can rip it off the build plate, resulting in a tangled ball of extruded plastic streamers.) To combat this, a wide, thin surrounding structure is deposited, that adds mechanical anchoring, making it harder to dislodge the part from the build surface from mechanical dragging. When making a part that has high density|volume, thermal dissipation (and thus, the impacts of thermal differences from top to bottom result in uneven strain forces inside the material) can easily cause warping in the part, which then mechanically pries the part from the surface or worse. A raft helps, because it is a thick, elevated structure that is closer to ambient temperature, and it is printed sparsely in contact with the print bed. In this case, I strongly suggest using a fairly wide brim, both inside and outside contours. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shift838 Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 (edited) I found wide wide 3M painters tape works great for adhesion issues. Don't overlap the seams, take your time to get it edge to edge. Edited August 31, 2020 by Shift838 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+retroclouds Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 There’s this guy mixing his own spray colors for Atari, Commodore, etc. https://hackaday.com/2020/09/01/retrocomputing-spray-paints-amiga-beige-commodore-and-atari-grey/ https://retrohax.net/spray-painting-a-computer-case-a-short-how-to/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 That is pretty cool. I found one of the Krylon colors was a perfect match for Amigas, and a light coat across a lightly faded or yellowed machine did wonders. But the past decade has seen new cases made from original molds (C64C) or perfectly reproduced with features accommodating modern peripherals (A500.) I also got a run of A1200 cases, which I cannot recall if these were custom molds or from the originals -- pretty certain they are custom. Anyway, I am getting OT here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 I ordered more M3 stand offs. (Since I have kinda run out in my screw bin, after this many prototypes along the road..) While I wait for them in the mail, I have looked into possible reasons for the "not great" print quality I experienced. Looked like my screw gear Z axis, and the linear bearings for all 3 axes, had gotten a bit "dry". I applied lots of machine oil and ran it through its paces. I am now in the middle of printing a 2-toned instance of this enclosure, that has the enlarged bay for better shield installation, and which has the really deep lettering. Currently printing the "wood" colored PLA for the bottom. Looks like it is printing OK. We will find out in about a day. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 The bottom half (that accepts the RF shield and the speech board) finished printing. The RF Shield installs WAAY easier now. Just drops right in. Very nice. Another 2 days or so will be required to print the new top with the deeper lettering. This brings up an interesting question: I have a "Very tight fit, and with not so pretty lettering, but otherwise fully functional" beige enclosure. Given the fastidiousness @hloberg has for matching the color, I would presume he is just as fastidious about lettering and such-- so I do not want to send him this enclosure. (I will wait until I have one that I am perfectly satisfied is of high quality in its make and build for that.) Does anyone else want this beige enclosure? I have a black and silver TI, and the original shell is perfectly fine for my needs. If I were to do the "Tipi +32k in speech enclosure" thing, I would use the models I have made, but print them in black, so really-- this enclosure is just gonna sit around collecting dust in some drawer some place. I would like to send it someone who will give it a home instead. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+arcadeshopper Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 5 hours ago, wierd_w said: The bottom half (that accepts the RF shield and the speech board) finished printing. The RF Shield installs WAAY easier now. Just drops right in. Very nice. Another 2 days or so will be required to print the new top with the deeper lettering. This brings up an interesting question: I have a "Very tight fit, and with not so pretty lettering, but otherwise fully functional" beige enclosure. Given the fastidiousness @hloberg has for matching the color, I would presume he is just as fastidious about lettering and such-- so I do not want to send him this enclosure. (I will wait until I have one that I am perfectly satisfied is of high quality in its make and build for that.) Does anyone else want this beige enclosure? I have a black and silver TI, and the original shell is perfectly fine for my needs. If I were to do the "Tipi +32k in speech enclosure" thing, I would use the models I have made, but print them in black, so really-- this enclosure is just gonna sit around collecting dust in some drawer some place. I would like to send it someone who will give it a home instead. I'll take it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 4 hours ago, arcadeshopper said: I'll take it! Shoot me a PM with where to send it to, and I will send it after I give it the rest of the "sand and polish" treatment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+arcadeshopper Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 Shoot me a PM with where to send it to, and I will send it after I give it the rest of the "sand and polish" treatment.DoneSent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 After a misprint (because my upstairs suddenly got real cold because of a sudden bout of september winter-like weather, probably due to the fires in colorado and california screwing with the weather), the new top is approaching completion. I note that some of the letters have issues. It may be necessary to enlarge the font slightly, because of lack of resolution in the printer I have. I am not gonna mess with that too much right now though, I will just clean out the recess with the sharp part of some sewing pins before backfilling. I picked up some slow setting (5minute) epoxy in some bulk bottles. Gonna try that instead of the UV resin. (Been overcast and rainy for days. UV torch still MIA, no idea where it got off to.) I am also re-touching the letters on the one I will send to arcadeshopper. Monday rolls around, I will visit the post office and send it on its merry way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 The new top has finished printing, Standoffs installed, shell assembled. Sanding underway. I have noticed a consistent printing anomaly, that is likely due to thermal contraction. In the top part, the walls seem to want to "bend inward" by a good half millimeter or so. This is unfortunate if you want the walls to be nice and smooth, as it means "aggressive sanding" is needed. I am thinking I will need to model in some material stiffening wedges in the inside of the walls to discourage this. There is more than enough material to sand through the anomaly and get nice flat walls. It just is a lot of extra bother. Fixing it for any future prints is good medicine. (I hope to one day end up with a "bulletproof" set of models that always prints nice, is aesthetically pleasing, and retains the very "rigid feel" this enclosure currently boasts. It really does feel very sturdy in your hands.) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 The epoxy + toner powder alternative seems to work just fine. (It's even cheaper than the UV resin I tried first, even.) After work tonight I will finish the letters on the 2-tone enclosure. (I mixed up a small 5mL of the mixture in a paper cup, and dobbed it into the letters then razor bladed the surface to avoid having to sand through a huge excess of material. The letters just jumped right out at me. It's still not perfect, because my printer is not the most accurate with its steppers, but it looks pretty sharp all the same. Making them deeper was clearly the right call. It should be cured enough to sand after work, and then I will take pictures.) Since this seems to work fine, I bet I could use this with loose colored toners just fine too. Could be interesting for more detailed image decals. (Red and white TI logos, using 50-50 mix of magenta and yellow toner powders, and fine-sanded refuse white PLA powder left over from sanding?) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 And--- Picture! I still have a LOT of sanding to do, but look how sexy it already looks. Very good looking text this time. Like I said, the "wood" colored PLA accents nicely with the "desert tan". 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 That is one sexy looking Speech Synthesizer case. I'm convinced now more than ever that a TIPI\32K version should be made available to the TI community. Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+hloberg Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 3 hours ago, wierd_w said: And--- Picture! I still have a LOT of sanding to do, but look how sexy it already looks. Very good looking text this time. Like I said, the "wood" colored PLA accents nicely with the "desert tan". nice. ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 I never thought I'd do this, but I'm seriously looking at beige TI's without Mitsumi keyboards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 56 minutes ago, Omega-TI said: I never thought I'd do this, but I'm seriously looking at beige TI's without Mitsumi keyboards. MFW 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 1 hour ago, Omega-TI said: I never thought I'd do this, but I'm seriously looking at beige TI's without Mitsumi keyboards. Welcome to the dark side. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 44 minutes ago, JB said: Welcome to the dark side. Yeah, that beige case is responsible! Once I get one, I gotta have a matching console for it! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 I dont want you to be disappointed; I would suggest that you let me send a finished sample to somebody with a beige TI for better color matching and such first. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 Seriously I'm not expecting a perfect match, who knows if one beige unit will be more aged yellow than another. I think the only thing that might be consistent is the blue lettering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GDMike Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 But still, it is a good job! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 I scored a beige TI with a non-Mitsumi keyboard and will be picking it up on the 18th. So, I'm half-way there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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