Vandal968 Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 Here you go. c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Thank you kind sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Here's my 1st progress report Starting tomorrow, I'll solder the loose components... Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBuell Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Wow, already looking great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 And today I made the order to Digi-Key for what's missing (less a few IC's that I may buy locally). Speaking of which, time to put some 2732's out in the sun to erase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Guitarman Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 And today I made the order to Digi-Key for what's missing (less a few IC's that I may buy locally). Speaking of which, time to put some 2732's out in the sun to erase Do you need some proms erased?? I am going to be in San Diego this weekend. If you need some erased, I can bring my eraser down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Thanks for the Do you need some proms erased?? I am going to be in San Diego this weekend. If you need some erased, I can bring my eraser down. Thanks for the offer, but I found an alternative method: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 150701463786 http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_104058/article.html Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Well, the board is now finished with all parts soldered and burned the 2732A Eprom (that toothbrush sanitizer works great on erasing eproms)... Looks like it was a waste of time and money buying 15 IC's at the local surplus electronics shop, so I placed an order with digi-key for those. Now to modify the 1200xl case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandal968 Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 So is the machine running then? Everything work? The cart chute needs to be shaved by .600" exactly. cheers, c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 (edited) So is the machine running then? Everything work? The cart chute needs to be shaved by .600" exactly. cheers, c Not yet, I think a few of those surplus chips are bad since it doesn't do anything , I ordered the 15 IC's today... The TV out just has wavy lines, monitor just shows a white screen briefly when turned off. I do have the power supply wired up correctly I'll check the osc out of FREDDIE with the freq counter to see how that is. On yours, does R140 & R141 get a bit warm? Q3 & Q8 is switching the -5v ok... Thanks for the tip on the cart clearance Jay Edited December 5, 2011 by AtariGeezer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandal968 Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Mine's cased at the moment, so I can't double-check right now, but I don't recall any of the components getting warm. cheers, c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Weird, before installing the new chips today, I decided to do one last test for shorts on all IC sockets crossing over pin by pin to make sure there wasn't any shorts on adjacent pins and I found a direct short between ground and the buffered clock out from U24 pin#7. U3 and U24 have the clock on pin#7 and ground on Pin#8, but there doesn't appear to be a short caused by solder buildup between the sockets and the board... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+bob1200xl Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 On my board, U24 pin 8 is connected to ground, pin 7 is not. You may have a short under the IC socket (too much solder in the joint will flow out the bottom of the hole). Try sucking all the solder out of both pins with the board held right-side-up and working from the bottom of the board (where you would normally solder with the board upside-down and work from the top of the board). This applies to other possible shorts elsewhere in that same net. It doesn't have to be at U24 -7 and -8. Bob Weird, before installing the new chips today, I decided to do one last test for shorts on all IC sockets crossing over pin by pin to make sure there wasn't any shorts on adjacent pins and I found a direct short between ground and the buffered clock out from U24 pin#7. U3 and U24 have the clock on pin#7 and ground on Pin#8, but there doesn't appear to be a short caused by solder buildup between the sockets and the board... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 On my board, U24 pin 8 is connected to ground, pin 7 is not. You may have a short under the IC socket (too much solder in the joint will flow out the bottom of the hole). Try sucking all the solder out of both pins with the board held right-side-up and working from the bottom of the board (where you would normally solder with the board upside-down and work from the top of the board). This applies to other possible shorts elsewhere in that same net. It doesn't have to be at U24 -7 and -8. Bob Yep. tried that already I even removed the sockets for U3 & U36 later last night and they were clean (I can see under U24 and that's ok). U36 has Pin#1 grounded and the clock on a trace running between pins 1 & 2 going to pin 27, but that was good too. Even resorted to the "pop" method applying a 12v battery on pins 7 & 8 of U3 and got an arc, but didn't clear the problem. I wonder if that clock line has a direct short to the ground plane? Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandal968 Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Even resorted to the "pop" method applying a 12v battery on pins 7 & 8 of U3 and got an arc, but didn't clear the problem. This makes me sad. c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Same here, I should have checked the board before assembly... My last resort is to cut the trace in the "half step" method to see where that dead short is and bypass it... Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+bob1200xl Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Yes, delete the net and add it back in wire. I would put it away for a day or two and then start over. You may be skipping a clue or making the wrong assumption over and over. Come back fresh and try it again. Yes - one of the vias may be shorted to the ground plane - have you tried a really bright lamp? You could drill them out one at a time and then repair them with dummy pins. That will leave the pads really weak, though. Bob Same here, I should have checked the board before assembly... My last resort is to cut the trace in the "half step" method to see where that dead short is and bypass it... Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Woohoo found the short and didn't have to cut any traces There was a very fine bridge between the vias going to U7 on the bottom side, cleaned it up and no more shorts... Now to run over to the parts store and get another socket for U36 and solder that and U3's socket back in. I'll let ya know in a few hours how it goes... Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandal968 Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 There was a very fine bridge between the vias going to U7 on the bottom side, cleaned it up and no more shorts... Was it an error on the board, or an error in your soldering? c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Was it an error on the board, or an error in your soldering? c That would be from human error... I have the two sockets soldered back in and no shorts, now to repopulate the ic's... Jay 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 AGENT 99 L I V E S :lust: :lust: :party: :party: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandal968 Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 (edited) Everything's working now?! Congratulations. I told you that there were no errors in my BOM. c PS: I've come up with a supervideo mod for this board that works beautifully. The factory output is quite good, better than the normal Atari video, but it gets better and you can enable chroma too. Edited December 9, 2011 by Vandal968 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 (edited) Yep, speech, modem, cartridge, joy ports, sio and keyboard Nothing on the tv out yet, but the monitor works... Thanks... Edit: TV out has a bunch of snow, thought I pulled it from a good 800xl? Jay Edited December 9, 2011 by AtariGeezer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Delighted to hear this is almost sorted now... the thread is more exciting than a soap-opera cliffhanger! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBuell Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 I'm waiting for more videos on Youtube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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