Level42 Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 Never mind it worked I'll edit my earlier posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 Why would sending a bubble envelope fro the US not be possible ? I've received plenty of them from the US. Never mind, I seem to be on Remowiliams ignore list anyway, I'll ask a local friend to print it. You aren't on my ignore list, I've just been busy with Retron 77 stuff I'm not sure shipping in a bubbleope like I use for the US would even survive international shipping... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 LOL just teasing... no it's fine I fully understand.....friend has a 3D printer, he did a 1050 Mega Speedy front for me already for a friends price so I'm sure he can do this if I ask him nicely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 LOL just teasing... no it's fine I fully understand.....friend has a 3D printer, he did a 1050 Mega Speedy front for me already for a friends price so I'm sure he can do this if I ask him nicely Ah cool, I remember seeing that 1050 front In ongoing news... I'm continuing to print out that filament roll and I'll probably have at least three more grey cases available 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 SPFD5408 seems to be getting used on a number of these from china screens now.... they don't list them with the proper id's....... or say 'compatible' but they really aren't, you either need the correct driver or have to add pull up resistors etc... not very nice. I don't think they have an idea other than to manufacture with whatever is handy at the time... worrying about the manuai if at all later..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddtmw Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Curious question: Is there any reason why I should not use the following locations with red arrows for the SIO instead of the headers on either side? Seems to me that it would be slightly cleaner to solder the RX, TX, +5V and Gnd locations near the A5 on the PCB instead of stretched out across the other duplicate locations. 07261816231.jpg Okay. so on this board, are the labels "backward" or overlay? IOW, is the hole closest to the GND tag ground and then the next one is 5V and the tX and then RX? Or is the one next to the GND tag RX, and then TX, 5V and GND? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Okay. so on this board, are the labels "backward" or overlay? IOW, is the hole closest to the GND tag ground and then the next one is 5V and the tX and then RX? Or is the one next to the GND tag RX, and then TX, 5V and GND? Thanks! The labels correspond in order, left to right, with the placement of the vias. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 The labels correspond in order, left to right, with the placement of the vias. Yup. What he said. It's just a reference point. They are not printed on the board near their actual location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farb Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 Oh, I didn't realize you were using an EclaireXL. If the protection complains about a custom OS with the oriignal OS-B rom, then that is probably because the Eclaire is not correctly behaving as a true 800 when accessing the C000 address range. Foft? @ijor (or anyone else) - do you know any of the specifics of the protection check? In other words, what kind of behavior is it expecting in that address range? Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ijor Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 @ijor (or anyone else) - do you know any of the specifics of the protection check? In other words, what kind of behavior is it expecting in that address range? IIRC it expects to be variable, non constant. The 800 doesn't have pullups on the data bus. So accessing an unoccupied address, as the CXXX in the 800, will return noise. That's why the earlier version of this protection is really 800 only. No kind of XL/XE translator, not even in ROM, would help. Instead of random noise and depending on the capacitance, it might return the last data driven on the bus. Don't remember the exact coding of the protection that would allow to work or not in this case. Either way, the code reads twice a few memory locations on that range, and verifies that the value is not the same. I don't remember for sure if Altirra emulates this behaviour and I'm too lazy to check right now. Seem to remember Phaeron commented he is aware about it, but it's too expensive to implement in terms of performance and not worth. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phaeron Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Altirra implements a single floating bus by default for 800 and XE hardware profiles and has an opt-in for 800 dual floating buses (Memory > Enable floating I/O bus). The only game I know of that requires that is Warhawk. Quick way to distinguish is to run a BASIC program that prints PEEK(54528) in a loop; it'll mostly print 255 for no floating bus, 213/0 for an XL/XE floating bus, and 212/0 for an 800 floating bus. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farb Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 The only game I know of that requires that is Warhawk Warhawk or WarGames? Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farb Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 Thanks, Ijor and Phaeron. Those posts were very helpful! Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ijor Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 (edited) Altirra implements a single floating bus by default for 800 and XE hardware profiles and has an opt-in for 800 dual floating buses (Memory > Enable floating I/O bus). Btw, did you (or anybody else for that matters) check if reading the floating bus returns noise or the last data previously driven on the bus? Not that I expect any program to actually depend on this, but I am curious as on other platforms the bus capacitance does retain the data for a few cycles. Edited August 1, 2018 by ijor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phaeron Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Warhawk or WarGames? WarGames, sorry. Btw, did you (or anybody else for that matters) check if reading the floating bus returns noise or the last data previously driven on the bus? Not that I expect any program to actually depend on this, but I am curious as on other platforms the bus capacitance does retain the data for a few cycles. Definitely the last data. PEEK(54528) returns mostly 213 or 0 on XE systems because it's either the last byte read from the PEEK address in page 0 ($D5xx) or a blank character on screen. It returns 212 instead on the 800 because the separated buses allow two different values to float, and the bus that the cartridge is on still has the $D4 (FR0) address byte from the LDA (zp),Y instruction in the BASIC cartridge. Values other than those are from other parts of the screen. The floating bus is very stable in my experience. I just did a test on my 130XE with both the playfield and the character font aimed at $D500-D7FF and a STA WSYNC loop designed to hold $F0 on the data bus before ANTIC locks it, and the badlines are rock solid. The interesting part is that the refresh cycles aren't stable, they appear to be sweeping RAM. I have a suspicion that the memory controller on this system isn't doing RAS-only refresh, it might actually just be doing full read cycles onto the data bus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Question on power. I am using the 600XL SIO 5V currently. Does the SDrive allow for DC or USB power at the same time? Will it recognize external power and switch to it or will that be an overload on the PCB? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Do not power it through USB/DC and SIO at the same time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Do not power it through USB/DC and SIO at the same time. Thanks! Planned on adding a tiny on/off switch on the SIO end between 5V signal, but wanted to check before I did the modification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Just figured out the wires, soldered, copied files to SD card.....and BAM running like crazy !!! This was probably one of the easiest projects I ever did Now...where is that last set of ATX files Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred_M Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Look here Andre http://atariage.com/forums/topic/234684-atari-8-bit-software-preservation-initiative/page-46 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 In ongoing news... I'm continuing to print out that filament roll and I'll probably have at least three more grey cases available I received my case today and it looks awesome :thumbsup: Please put me on the list again for a 2nd one if you print out any more... Thanks again, Jay 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR> Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 (edited) So those 'imperfect' cases I mentioned earlier. This roll of grey PLA has annoyed me with it's inconsistency - but rather than chuck the roll I figured why not print some more cases with it... This is what I've got so far, a few are already spoken for. Shipping in a bubbleope to US addresses should be about $3.50 Thanks Remo, great Case! Just discovered that it fits perfectly in the XL cart slot and sits at the perfect viewing angle. The BIG USB port helps support it, so the micro USB boards probably won't sit like this. Edited August 4, 2018 by JR> 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddtmw Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 I'm sure it's just this roll, it's just extrusion wise not quite up to my standards for perfect (or at least as close as I can get ) I'm thinking a good lot of people wouldn't even notice honestly. Not to get off topic (he says, before going off-topic), but what brand(s) of filament do you have the best luck with? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Not to get off topic (he says, before going off-topic), but what brand(s) of filament do you have the best luck with? I mostly use Hatchbox (PLA,ABS) though I also have some Inland ABS (picked up at Microcenter) and some AMZ3D as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hefner Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 For ABS I'm pretty much Hatchbox-only, for PLA I've been using ESun PLA+ (pro). I'm currently playing with ESun PETG as well. My best prints so far have been with the PLA+ stuff, very consistent, prints nicely. I've also got some Inland PLA, Yoyi TPU, and Proto-pasta ABS/PC, but haven't tried any of that yet, lol. Soon as their PETG is available, I'm going to try out that new Amazon Basics stuff, it's been getting some good reviews from the initial samples they've sent out. If I had to pick one brand though, probably ESun at the moment. Everything I've tried from them has printed without issues, aside from the PETG tuning woes (strings like crazy, but I have it somewhat under control now). This is my last print, made with PETG. Had a little bit of stringing in the vents, but only took a couple minutes to clean it out, and it's way stronger than my last print in PLA+ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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