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Atari XE Remake Pre Order Thread


santosp
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:idea: An urgent update for those who want to assemble the UAV circuit on this board.

ON semiconductor announce the "end of life" of NCS2563DR2G video amplifier.

This crucial component for the assembly of UAV circuit will be discontinued by the manufacturer after 8 July 2022.

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1 hour ago, santosp said:

:idea: An urgent update for those who want to assemble the UAV circuit on this board.

ON semiconductor announce the "end of life" of NCS2563DR2G video amplifier.

This crucial component for the assembly of UAV circuit will be discontinued by the manufacturer after 8 July 2022.

 

Is there any suitable replacement/substitute available (considering other manufacturers).

 

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The Ferrite Beads (2Ohm / 5) are currently not available at mouser. Not again until December. Is there an alternative for this? Can I use Beads with other values?

 

like these:

 

40X FRH035060-A Ferrit: Perle Imp.@ 100MHz: 60Ω Montage: THT Imp.@ 25MHz: 30Ω FE | eBay

or

https://www.reichelt.de/emv-ferrit-entstoerfilter-axial-21-ohm-10-mhz-bead-8-21-p105526.html?&nbc=1&trstct=lsbght_sldr::7112

 

 


 
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In the original schematic of the 512k extension from hias is a note, to set two connections if you don't use the battery and the DS1210 IC.

If i don't use U12 (MXD1210) should i set two jumper on the empty socket of U12 (1-8 and 5-6) to set the two bridges like in the digram?

 

 

without_battery.jpg

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16 hours ago, santosp said:

@olix

You must do a solder between the pins 1 and 8 of U12.

Just to be absolutely sure and not to make a mistake:

I only need to do a solder between 1 an 8 of U12?
I really don't need a connection between pin 5 and 6 of U12?
In the original circuit diagram from HIAS, this is expressly listed in note 1, if no battery is fitted. Otherwise the connection between the GAL (pin 18) and the memory chip (pin 22) would be missing.

 

 

no_bat2.jpg

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Just taking a moment to show off my completed build..

 

I chose to outfit my board with the Atarimax 32-in-1 Warp OS module for speed and 800 compatibility, as well as a POKEYmax for stereo sound. Both upgrades were greatly simplified by santosp including so many thoughtfully labelled breakout points. Audio out is available on both the enhanced 8-pin monitor port and a 3.5mm phone jack.

 

Yes, that is a light-grey Lego 2x4 tile used to block off the RF and channel-select  switch holes, and to provide a mounting surface for the stereo phone jack.

 

All wrapped up in a very clean case and keyboard I set aside for this project. Finishing touch is an 'XE-touch' keyboard upgrade from Best Electronics. Anyone who hasn't experienced this yet, it is an absolute revelation.

 

Unfortunately, I did not know that POKEYmax and TransKey II don't get along with each other, so for now the PS2 keyboard jack is useless. I have searched the forums for a solution to this but have not found one.

 

Thank you, @santosp for creating this board! I have now been able to build the 'perfect-for-me' 130XE I've always wanted.

 

Shout-out to @Stephen for programming the TK2 PIC for me. Works great with a genuine POKEY. Hopefully I can get POKEYmax to cooperate.

board.jpg

audio jack.jpg

overall.jpg

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8 hours ago, foft said:

Yeah I think TKII works pretty well with pokeymax if you flash a recent core. I have the XEGS to test with.

Cool. So flashing with v1.21 should make my TransKey happy?

 

Also, my PokeyMax is model 111MO2SC, so I cannot use the .xex flash tool. Would this USB Blaster be up to the task?

 

This project is really forcing me to update my electronics tools. And skills.

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54 minutes ago, adam242 said:

Cool. So flashing with v1.21 should make my TransKey happy?

 

Also, my PokeyMax is model 111MO2SC, so I cannot use the .xex flash tool. Would this USB Blaster be up to the task?

 

This project is really forcing me to update my electronics tools. And skills.

I am using PokeyMax v3 with the latest firmware of TK-II no issues.  I did have to follow the suggestions from Mytek pasted  below, because with the PIC chip in the socket my Atari keyboard did not work initially.  After the CTRL+ALT+X on the ps/2 keyboard then I was able to use both my Atari and the PS/2 at the same time.

 

 

On the PS/2 keyboard press CTRL+ALT+X (Alt+X will show present setting - you want it to be OFF). This is a toggle function, so each time you press that 3 key combination you will toggle to the opposite setting (either ON or OFF). Whatever your last setting was, that will be restored upon power-up the next time around.

 

This will float the KR lines going to Pokey and allow both keyboards to work.

 

Hope that helps :)

 

BTW, the latest firmware (V2.7J) is the one to use, since it corrects a problem associated with the stock keyboard's CRTL, SHIFT, and BREAK keys.

Edited by venom4728a
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