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Collecting for the 2600+


Brad_from_the_80s

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2 minutes ago, fairy princess said:

I still boots as normal. Never had an original console. The 2600+ is my first...

I would keep trying your other carts to see if they boot up. If you are still on the original firmware, maybe upgrade to the latest experimental firmware and dumper and see if you get the same result.

If no carts work after that I would PM Ben from plaion.

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4 minutes ago, Intellivision Master said:

20240827_103152.thumb.jpg.589ddfe06e9a99564fcd5f764659c643.jpg

Here is the latest cart.   It's a good shooter.  I used my gamepad.  I know it can also be played using two joysticks.  When I play again I'll test my custom twin stick and see how it goes.

I just recently got a copy of Defender Arcade, which is based on this game, but with different scoring, no stargates, no inviso, different enemies and different ship sprite and colors. It's actually a lot more forgiving, I find Stargate to be rather difficult too quickly. Enjoy both tho. 

 

One of my favorite controllers is a dual stick controller and I typically use it for this game, although the second stick isn't used a hell of a lot, trying to figure out which does what usually results in my death before it can help lol 

Edited by tradyblix
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32 minutes ago, tradyblix said:

I just recently got a copy of Defender Arcade, which is based on this game, but with different scoring, no stargates, no inviso, different enemies and different ship sprite and colors. It's actually a lot more forgiving, I find Stargate to be rather difficult too quickly. Enjoy both tho. 

It would have been nice if Stargate had an easy mode with extra lives.

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2 hours ago, Intellivision Master said:

20240827_103152.thumb.jpg.589ddfe06e9a99564fcd5f764659c643.jpg

Here is the latest cart.   It's a good shooter.  I used my gamepad.  I know it can also be played using two joysticks.  When I play again I'll test my custom twin stick and see how it goes.

Defender II uses two joysticks?

 

Oh dear, i wanna get my hands on the dual CX24s for the unholy experience...

 

Honestly if atari makes a remake of the 2800/Sears Tele-Games II Paddle-Joystick. That would be much more preferable i think... Plus maybe we'd get more SNK shmups + new ikari?

 

I mean think about it, imagine making an intentionally jerky demake of the old Resident Evil titles where the paddle part turns your character and all the standard tank controls stuff but on atari, that would be stupidly funny.

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17 hours ago, fairy princess said:

Done it. Not that I have any idea how to replace it....

 

17 hours ago, tradyblix said:

Yeah I don't know either. But it shouldn't be too hard.

 

And I'm sure someone in here who is helpful will post something to help us. 

Update a few hours later: Ben from Plaion mentioned this is his give away post: "There are two versions of the original IO PCB with a slightly different position to the ribbon socket, I think the Lever PCBs also have 2 positions depending on the manufacture batch. Thus I will supply two slightly longer ribbons so any configuration will work." So it is possible that the ribbon cables and the way they connect to the IO board is slightly different than in this tutorial and/or you must use the supplied slightly longer ribbon cables.

 

Here is a small tutorial that I made. It really is not that difficult. @fairy princess To get a better look at your current cartridge slot you can follow these steps too. You will get a better view of the cartridge slot and you can see if pins are bent. If you are up to it, you can use a needle to pull the bent ones back up.

 

How to replace the I/O board (ofcourse at your own risk)

 

step1.thumb.jpg.5e226e7b3c663d4ed21852ce3af91f8f.jpg

step2.thumb.jpg.13099b64e982fc0ed8dc966c9db2d9c2.jpg

step3.thumb.jpg.b235476f5b7109768b0bcb091c3cb177.jpg

If you do not want to put some pressure at the plastic back, you can also remove all screws that are attached to the black plastic (some of them can be reached by using the holes in the PCBs). The complete front panel (where the cartridge slot and the switches are) will come loose and makes removing the Main Board and I/O board much easier.

 

step4.thumb.jpg.c154818877328979edeb2c75a354d852.jpg

step5.thumb.jpg.c21ce3a0a66bd4d92b8fd1f5d7a1ac4c.jpg

step6.thumb.jpg.fff6952407f2a8fb802161d139c4f3b4.jpg

If you do not want to put some pressure at the plastic back, you can also remove all screws that are attached to the black plastic (some of them can be reached by using the holes in the PCBs). The complete front panel (where the cartridge slot and the switches are) will come loose and makes removing the Main Board and I/O board much easier.

step7.thumb.jpg.200927f56ad31e721bdd5e49d59ba9f7.jpg

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14 hours ago, DEANJIMMY said:

Now I got an NTSC version of Roc'n Rope.

The PAL version is almost black and white and the egg not golden😅

20240827_224514.jpg

20240827_224522.jpg

The NTSC version is so much better. This game has an egregiously crap PAL version. 

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33 minutes ago, Fred_M said:

 

 

Here is a small tutorial that I made. It really is not that difficult. @fairy princess To get a better look at your current cartridge slot you can follow these steps too. You will get a better view of the cartridge slot and you can see if pins are bent. If you are up to it, you can use a needle to pull the bent ones back up.

 

How to replace the I/O board (ofcourse at your own risk)

 

step1.thumb.jpg.5e226e7b3c663d4ed21852ce3af91f8f.jpg

step2.thumb.jpg.13099b64e982fc0ed8dc966c9db2d9c2.jpg

step3.thumb.jpg.b235476f5b7109768b0bcb091c3cb177.jpg

If you do not want to put some pressure at the plastic back, you can also remove all screws that are attached to the black plastic (some of them can be reached by using the holes in the PCBs). The complete front panel (where the cartridge slot and the switches are) will come loose and makes removing the Main Board and I/O board much easier.

 

step4.thumb.jpg.c154818877328979edeb2c75a354d852.jpg

step5.thumb.jpg.c21ce3a0a66bd4d92b8fd1f5d7a1ac4c.jpg

step6.thumb.jpg.fff6952407f2a8fb802161d139c4f3b4.jpg

If you do not want to put some pressure at the plastic back, you can also remove all screws that are attached to the black plastic (some of them can be reached by using the holes in the PCBs). The complete front panel (where the cartridge slot and the switches are) will come loose and makes removing the Main Board and I/O board much easier.

step7.thumb.jpg.200927f56ad31e721bdd5e49d59ba9f7.jpg

Question. After doing this replacement, do you have to do all the previous firmware updates for both the board and dumper again? 

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11 minutes ago, DhaemonX said:

Question. After doing this replacement, do you have to do all the previous firmware updates for both the board and dumper again? 

I don't know. I do not have the new main board yet. Maybe @JetmanUK can answer this question?

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8 minutes ago, DhaemonX said:

Question. After doing this replacement, do you have to do all the previous firmware updates for both the board and dumper again? 

Even *if* a firmware update is needed, all older versions do not have to be applied. 

Just the latest firmware version as linked to and highlighted in the opening post of the below thread:

 

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By the way, you can clearly see that after testing over 450 cartridges my cartridge slot was damaged quite a lot. I had to bent back a lot of pins 😒 Luckily Ben(d) started a competition to get a replacement with the new and improved cartridge slot 😃

 

cartridge_slot.thumb.jpg.86df4cfb13b128ef6be431b83925d9ba.jpg

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24 minutes ago, Fred_M said:

By the way, you can clearly see that after testing over 450 cartridges my cartridge slot was damaged quite a lot. I had to bent back a lot of pins 😒 Luckily Ben(d) started a competition to get a replacement with the new and improved cartridge slot 😃

 

cartridge_slot.thumb.jpg.86df4cfb13b128ef6be431b83925d9ba.jpg

Holy cow. Why are the pins getting bent so easily? 

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45 minutes ago, Fred_M said:

I don't know. I do not have the new main board yet. Maybe @JetmanUK can answer this question?

 After fitting the new I/O board I think I just had to apply the dumper upgrade, if I recall correctly, just skip to the latest one.

 

When you boot the console up you'll instantly be able to tell if the main firmware is as before by checking the bottom right corner of the screen. It should still be as it was. If it's not then I am wrong and you do need to update the main firmware too... But I don't think I am wrong. 

Edited by JetmanUK
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1 minute ago, DhaemonX said:

Holy cow. Why are the pins getting bent so easily? 

I am not 100% sure, I suspect the thickness of some cartridge PCBs. Some brands and some of the later (red) Atari releases use thicker PCBs (the part that goes into the slot). I suspect that those pushed down/bent some pins if the cartridge is not carefully placed exactly in the middle of the slot.

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6 minutes ago, Fred_M said:

I am not 100% sure, I suspect the thickness of some cartridge PCBs. Some brands and some of the later (red) Atari releases use thicker PCBs (the part that goes into the slot). I suspect that those pushed down/bent some pins if the cartridge is not carefully placed exactly in the middle of the slot.

Well that's unfortunate. Glad I posted in that thread to get the updated slot. 

Oh and thanks for posting that visual tutorial. I was going to ask someone but you already took the time to do it.

Really appreciated. 

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