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S-video for the 7800?


johnnywc

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No way!  That's wicked cool!  SO once the data is pulled fdown from the cart, where does it go?  Does it have a line that copies it to a PC or something?  I hope that this isn't too remedial a question... I'm just insanely curious.

 

Top link.

 

http://home.arcor.de/estolberg/tools/index.html

 

;)

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Wicked. I love this recent rennaisance of hemmoraging data out of an Atari through the joystick port. :)

 

I'll just be happy to have a nice stable video out and separate audio outputs for each audio oscillator. Since I use Paul Slocum's Synthcart a lot, I want to be able to separately do stuff with the drum sounds and the lead sounds.

 

I've tried building the "Stereo" mod in the past, but have had some problems with it. I'll just have to take another crack at it with the 7800. I'd sure feel dumb buying another CyberTech mod just to get the audio output right. :)

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Sorry I'm getting in on this thread kind of late guys, but I've done a 7800 S-video and audio modification to my 7800. First off, I just have to say, this is not something to be done by someone who is inexperienced, even with the various modification instructions available. These various modifications instructions are very clear in instruction and the steps to be taken. But, I attempted 3 different variations that are available online and I found every single one of them to be unsatisfactory witht he final results. Especially those that use pre-determined resisters in the circuits, maybe the choices made by the authors work fine with their set-ups and TV's or monitors, but they were all terrible with my monitors and TV. In the end, I COMBINED designs from all three "published" modification circuits and then used trial and error with some modifications of my own. In the end, I have a GREAT circuit that works great and gives an EXCELLENT picture for both my 7800 and 2600 games. The main suggestion I have to anyone attempting an A/V mod on a 7800 is to use adustable pots for the final chroma and lumina outputs, becuase it is a MUST to be able to adjust the chroma and luma to a good average for both 2600 and 7800 games and your TV or monitor. If you are not very experienced with electronics, get someone who is to do the modification for you, someone who ca, like me, be able to take "parts" of the different modification instructions and combine them into a quality modification. Some one with some experience and creativity, someone, who if they chose too, could make their own circuit from scratch. Otherwise, wait until an easy-to-install kit becomes available for the layman to install. In the end, I'm VERY happy with the circuit I made, out of the instructions given by several others and my own two-cents worth of knowledge thrown into the mix. Below is a picture of my mod.

post-149-1105086438_thumb.jpg

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Out the joystick port. I used a MAX232 chip and piped it out the left joystick port at 2400 baud (I also recently wrote a debugger which was bi-directional 2400 baud through the right joystick port), and DevOS uses some kind of multi-bit protocol to a PC parallel port. Which is kinda useless for me since I almost exclusively use Macs.

 

The hardware mod is also necessary if you want to bypass the encryption check.

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Way cool, that veeeeery niiiicccceeee!!

 

How does it stay in place? Double sided tape?

 

Once I had a working board going (based on the info around the 'net), I was going to drill holes on the RF shielding and put the board on the inside of the sheilding. I don't think that I'm going to get a decent result with those circuits (I've tried so many of them without success), so it looks like Mike's board from 8bitdomain could very well be a goer. (Mike, can holes be made on each of the corners of the board for this method of mounting?)

 

Would it be a good/bad idea to mount the board on the inside of the RF shielding (nice and secure, won't come unstuck when 7800 heats up)?

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Wow, that's sweet. Tapping through a socketed U3 was pretty smart.

 

As for the question about installation, I suspect that it's something like:

 

1) desolder and socketize U3 (a significant task in itself), then put the chip in the socket (if you messed it up, you better have a spare chip handy) and make sure your 7800 still works. I sometimes mess up a trace when socketizing and have to add a jumper wire to fix things.

 

2) solder the 7-wire harness to various resistors on the motherboard, see diagram (not pictured). It may be a good idea to again make sure your 7800 still works at this point.

 

3) plug in the 7-wire and 4-wire harnesses

 

4) remove U3, plug the board into the U3 socket and put the U3 chip into the board

 

5) plug your S-video and audio connections into the plugs on the other end of the 4-wire harness (not pictured)

 

6) PROFIT!

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I hate to say this now, but I have a mini-van with a TV and the only inputs in there are the three RCA jacks.

 

This leads me to say: I would like both s-view and a regular RCA jack for video.

 

Will there be a way to hook this up to a auto RCA jack and a video RCA jack TV?

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I hate to say this now, but I have a mini-van with a TV and the only inputs in there are the three RCA jacks.

 

This leads me to say: I would like both s-view and a regular RCA jack for video.

 

Will there be a way to hook this up to a auto RCA jack and a video RCA jack TV?

 

a ~$6 s-video to composite video adapter will do the trick quite nicely!

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Hi!

 

Bruce - I'm wondering if the 7 wire harness is for the output? I see Red, White, Yellow, and Black (I'm thinking Audio Right, Audio Left, Composite Out, and Ground) - and then Green, Purple, and Blue for component out as well (kind of like the 5200 version).

 

I think the 4 wires are the ones that get soldered to the board... If that's the case then Mot's fine :)

 

Bob

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Just signed up/prepaid for 2. I was wondering, the connectors are nice, but why not just hardwire the cables to the PCB? It would save the cost of the Molex connector sets. Looks like you could hand assemble the board in about 45 minutes? Of course for quantity pick and place and re-flow oven would work nicely for quantities. There is a place in Washington that will do small runs reasonably with very high quality workmanship. 8bit domain, email me if you are interested . (tiw02t @netscape.net)

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