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SDrive-MAX ATX support


Farb

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Hi Mr Robot,

I thought you would consider to pass the Command Line through the 7407 in V3 ?

 

Here is the diagram from TGB1718 showing how it should be done:

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/288901-sdrive-max-installation-help/?do=findComment&comment=4234325

 

Perhaps in V4 ?

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Hi,

 

You mean wiring up pins 5 & 6 on the 7407, and adding another 4k7 resistor? Would that work?

 

I was actually more interested in the physical aspect - e.g. how well the board fits into an Arduino, but if the logic can be improved, that would be even better.

Edited by E474
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You mean wiring up pins 5 & 6 on the 7407, and adding another 4k7 resistor? Would that work?

 

 

Now that you asked, I looked again at the diagram and it seems that the PINs 5 and 6 are exchanged and the diagram is incorrect...

The command line signal should be handled exactly in the same way as SIO DATA IN (PIN3):

7407 PIN5 <-> Arduino A5
7407 PIN6 <-> SIO COMMAND PIN7
4K7 between SIO PIN10 and SIO PIN7

Of course one can use another pair of 7407 PINs to optimize the layout of the brakout board.

Edited by TheMontezuma
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Sorry, I confused myself. The diagram is fine.

 

The SIO COMMAND LINE should be handled in a similar way as SIO DATA OUT (on ATARI computer side).

Or the other way round: A5 in a similar way as RX (on the Arduino side).

7407 PIN6 <-> Arduino A5
7407 PIN5 <-> SIO COMMAND PIN7
4K7 between SIO PIN10 and SIO PIN7
Edited by TheMontezuma
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The only change on V3 was me adding another row of pins to line up correctly with a different version of fake UNO. v2 works perfectly for me.

 

I've not had anyone say this doesn't work, except for the pin alignment issue that v3 fixes.

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The only change on V3 was me adding another row of pins to line up correctly with a different version of fake UNO. v2 works perfectly for me.

 

I've not had anyone say this doesn't work, except for the pin alignment issue that v3 fixes.

 

I'm not saying that v2 does not work.

I'm just saying that 7407 has unused buffers, which can be used for free. That's all.

Edited by TheMontezuma
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Hi,

 

I was just asking if the pins on the Arduinos lined up since the upgrade to version 3, but I like the idea of COMMAND line being buffered (though this is not a deal breaker for me as I don't actually understand what's going on, but also would prefer not to miss out on something that might be better, if you see what I mean?).

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Not to drift the thread to far. You just know someone is going to want to plug their SIO2PC cable, SDrive Max, ESP8266, PRConnection, a real 1050 and maybe an 850 in at the same time. Easy out is to just tell them don't. It would have been nice if we had an option to maybe have ~2 amps at 5V available that wouldn't look like a rats nest. Everything you add puts a load on the data lines. Some of the stuff like the ESP8266 can spike .2 amps all by its lonesome.

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It's almost right, not bad given that I don't actually have that UNO version to measure. Unless someone wants to send me one of those model UNO's, that's about as close as it's going to get!

Edited by Mr Robot
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Hi,

 

Thanks MADRAFi for the photo, and of course Mr Robot for sharing the PCB design!

 

Is there any chance of some photos from different angles, it's a little hard to see the alignment, but I'm guessing it's only off by a millimetre or so?

 

I'm out of town at the moment, but can try and upload some photos of my (clone) Arduino with graph paper/ruler in picture to give a better idea of alignment (when I get back).

 

I'm guessing that one solution would be to (carefully) bend the pins with some needle nosed pliers, just to get the alignment spot-on?

 

Hope there will be a version 4 at some point (who would have thought it?).

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Hi, Yes it is slightly off. Those pins which do not allign are those you have to solder yourself. So I have first put it all together and solder them angled.

 

I am not sure if you will bea ble to have 1 common version supporting all holes perfectly. I would try to swap print for pins with the row of pins closest to the 6 pins group.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

looks like an important update. It clears up some irritating behaviors. Nice job.

 

hmmm people will ask questions...

 

here are the highlights

 

  • screen blanker is now only on main page
  • fixed display bug after formatting new image
  • scrolling filename optimized
  • fixed bug on reinsert SDRIVE.ATR to D0:
  • added multiline output for long filenames in filebrowser
Edited by _The Doctor__
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I have gotten my Sdrive-Max running and don't have problems with most of the atr and atx files. I finally bought two of the uno2 boards with screens, so now I need to know what else I can do with the second Uno---- are the other Atari projects available for the Uno other than as an Sdrive.

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I have gotten my Sdrive-Max running and don't have problems with most of the atr and atx files. I finally bought two of the uno2 boards with screens, so now I need to know what else I can do with the second Uno---- are the other Atari projects available for the Uno other than as an Sdrive.

 

Not really Atari-related, but there are a lot of cool Arduino Touchscreen projects. Some examples:

https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/projects/tags/touchscreen

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Also, Arduino is pretty easy to program. You should download the IDE and check it out. I've done some cool things with them.

 

My house had an alarm system, but it wasn't working. I pulled out the panel and used the sensor wires with an Arduino to to all of the door sensors into my Smartthings and then hubitat smart home platform.

 

I also used a relay shield to ping googles nameservers every 10 seconds and if it couldn't get to it ten times in a row, it dropped the relay (which had my cable modem and wifi accesspoint plugged into it), waited 60 seconds and then brought the relay back up.

 

Neither of those needed a screen, but this is a pretty powerful little microcontroller. it has 2 K of SRAM and 32 K of flash RAM. (That's Kilobytes, not Megabytes!)

 

It has a 16 MHz clock rate, but, it's really not THAT much more powerful than our beloved 8-bit Ataris!

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So this should be drag and drop for the firmware flashing ? Did you try it ?

 

Finally got around to trying this on my mac, updated from 1.0 to 1.1 with no problems at all.

 

Make sure Arduino is installed and run this, wait till it finds your UNO, select the serial port it found, then select eeprom_writer.hex first, then SDrive.hex, when you select one it just pushes it straight to the UNO. No muss, no fuss

 

Nice little app!

 

http://paulkaplan.me/HexUploader/

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Also, Arduino is pretty easy to program. You should download the IDE and check it out. I've done some cool things with them.

 

My house had an alarm system, but it wasn't working. I pulled out the panel and used the sensor wires with an Arduino to to all of the door sensors into my Smartthings and then hubitat smart home platform.

 

I also used a relay shield to ping googles nameservers every 10 seconds and if it couldn't get to it ten times in a row, it dropped the relay (which had my cable modem and wifi accesspoint plugged into it), waited 60 seconds and then brought the relay back up.

 

Neither of those needed a screen, but this is a pretty powerful little microcontroller. it has 2 K of SRAM and 32 K of flash RAM. (That's Kilobytes, not Megabytes!)

 

It has a 16 MHz clock rate, but, it's really not THAT much more powerful than our beloved 8-bit Ataris!

 

Sounds good, but I would rather ping my provider, rather than the evil Goo. If the Goo goes down, you will be in a reboot loop.

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As I could not get my SDrive Max to run with my own perfboard-build assembly I ordered a couple of V3 boards. My (elegoo) Arduino lacks that row of TX/RX/5V/GND connections, so I connected the board to the underside of the Arduino with wires.

 

I wired everything but A5 to the V3 board, A5 directly to the Arduino. I then connected the holes designed for the pin header to GND, 5V, TX and RX.

 

The SDrive itself works normally most of the time. Sometimes the screen shows stripes but usually it shows the buttons for the drives, etc.

 

It does not seem to register with the 130XE, however, which makes the scratching sound and does not find a device.

 

I have some more Arduinos coming from China but would really like to get this one running as well.

 

Is the 6-pin block that goes onto the ICSP socket of the Arduino required to work or is it used for mounting only? I can't mount it there because it conflicts with the socketed ATMega on the Arduino. With the "free-floating" V3 board the unit works as described above.

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Pins 1 & 5 are connected to VCC and GND. As long as you have those connected somewhere, you don't need to worry about that connector.

post-62759-0-76418200-1558043361.jpg

 

EDIT:

When you say the boards conflicts with the socketed ATMega, do you mean you have this UNO?

post-62759-0-42274500-1558043802_thumb.jpg

 

If you do, you don't need the SIO2UNO board at all. You just need to do this...

post-62759-0-20415900-1558043974.jpg

 

Reconnect that pin if you want to update the firmware. I'd just install a switch!

Edited by Mr Robot
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