pancio Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 On 4/25/2024 at 5:47 PM, reifsnyderb said: Did you ever get a chance to test this? Hi, Sent to @ndary and waiting for feedback.. BR, 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 On 4/25/2024 at 9:49 AM, Stephen said: Here's another 1090 in the wild. I just need to clean the flux and power test the board before inserting the ICs. Excuse the laid over cap at C5 - they were too large to fit side by side and also, I had to cut the caps out of the cardboard/tape strips so I didn't rip the legs out. In doing so, the leads were too short to adjust so the cap would sit farther to the side. Is this the 10v / 12v version? Thinking of buying this soon. Also, did you see that top 50-pin edge card socket's bent pins? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reifsnyderb Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 (edited) 27 minutes ago, AtariGeezer said: Is this the 10v / 12v version? Thinking of buying this soon. Also, did you see that top 50-pin edge card socket's bent pins? @Stephen assembled the 10v / 12v version from parts. I didn't noticed the bent pins until you mentioned it. Those bent pins will be a problem. I've learned the hard way to test all sockets prior to installation as those 50 pin sockets are very difficult to remove. The rare socket will look ok, initially, but will have pins that bend the first time you insert an edge connector. Also, only 4 20-pin sockets are required and the 8 diodes, near the edge connector, are optional and were never installed by Atari. Edited May 1 by reifsnyderb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 1 hour ago, AtariGeezer said: Is this the 10v / 12v version? Thinking of buying this soon. Also, did you see that top 50-pin edge card socket's bent pins? Damn! I did not notice the pins yet. Everything was perfectly fine from the bottom. Not looking forward to repairing that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenames99 Posted May 1 Author Share Posted May 1 (edited) damn! I did not see that either. and I did pre-insert cards to verify the connectors were ok. I did not look close enough after. those are pins 49 and 50 which are used by component gnd(49) and +12v(50) which are not used for anything I know of right now. I also do not think they are touching but a meter check would be in order for me. I will check the board schematics I have to be sure though. I would like to get that fixed somehow though. let me know. cuz I do not like that capacitor laying down on the job either. Edited May 1 by kenames99 lacking information 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMil2 Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 Something has just occurred to me... Both of my XL's (600 and 800) have 256K upgrades installed in them. Is this going to create problems with my 1090XL? David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reifsnyderb Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 12 minutes ago, DavidMil2 said: Something has just occurred to me... Both of my XL's (600 and 800) have 256K upgrades installed in them. Is this going to create problems with my 1090XL? David Most likely, everything but the 320k memory card will work. Depending on how the 256k upgrades were implemented, the 320k memory card could work, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Larry Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 Has anyone tried various CP/M software on the 1090 box + 80-column card? WordStar was probably the #1 program for CP/M. What is involved in getting CP/M titles over to an Atari format disk (or is that required)? With an ATR8000, you can have an industry-standard 5-1/4" disk, but with the 1090, you are limited to Atari-type drives? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 No reason you can't save to Atari DSDD drives nor is there any reason precluding the saves to 8 inch Atari Drives. Tandon, World Storage, QumeTrak, et al are industry standard drives and the drive controller card in this instance would be the hybrid Atari computer and the intelligent drive board in the drive housing- this is in fact not much different than what was done on the machines in the first place. Host adapters, Controllers, I/O bridging being normal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reifsnyderb Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 1 hour ago, Larry said: Has anyone tried various CP/M software on the 1090 box + 80-column card? WordStar was probably the #1 program for CP/M. What is involved in getting CP/M titles over to an Atari format disk (or is that required)? With an ATR8000, you can have an industry-standard 5-1/4" disk, but with the 1090, you are limited to Atari-type drives? While I can't speak for the ATR8000, with the 1090XL Z-80 CP/M card this is more of a software question. With the 1090XL Z-80 CP/M card, the Atari is being used as an I/O device that leverages the Atari OS. Specifically, the keyboard, screen, and printer are being handled by CIO, using their device letter. i.e. K: The disks are using the resident disk handler, which is essentially just SIO with a little extra help from Atari's OS. So disks are addressed as per their hardware configuration. It is also important to note that Atari disks are more of an abstract system as only the sector number is used to address a location on a disk. The track, sector, and interleave factor are handled by the disk drive itself. (Since the resident disk handler is being used, if a disk drive were to be connected via a 1090XL card, the resident disk handler would be able to handle this disk as well.) If an ATR8000 is connected, and the first disk drive is an 8" disk drive, that will be drive A. Compatibility is more of a software problem in that CP/M is rather primitive and the disk formats are literally coded into it's BIOS. CP/M's BIOS is configured to address a disk by track, sector, and handle the interleave. Right now, I have the CP/M BIOS programed such that the disks set as having 40 tracks with 26 sectors. This track/sector addressing is then converted to an Atari 1050 sector...so the 1050 can convert it back. This should work fine with an Atari 1050 with enhanced density (130k) disks. It would also be possible to make this configurable. I am thinking that it makes sense to supply the source code so that once I get all of the basics working people can customize and improve the CP/M BIOS. I'll soon have it worked out as how to get software onto a 1050 with CP/M formatted disks by using the Atari. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Larry Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 @reifsnyderb Thanks for the very good explanation! This has really turned into an amazing project! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMil2 Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 21 hours ago, reifsnyderb said: Most likely, everything but the 320k memory card will work. Depending on how the 256k upgrades were implemented, the 320k memory card could work, too. Slight mistake on my part... The 600XL only has a 64K upgrade. Both were purchased from Best many years ago. DavidMil2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reifsnyderb Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 21 minutes ago, DavidMil2 said: Slight mistake on my part... The 600XL only has a 64K upgrade. Both were purchased from Best many years ago. DavidMil2 I've never tried the 320k card with a 64k 600XL. I highly suspect the 320k card will work without a problem as the PBI EXTENB and /EXTSEL lines should still function normally. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkindig Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 (edited) 20 hours ago, reifsnyderb said: I've never tried the 320k card with a 64k 600XL. I highly suspect the 320k card will work without a problem as the PBI EXTENB and /EXTSEL lines should still function normally. My displays of the 1090XL and 320K RAM card at VCF SoCal and Indy Classic Expo were with a 64K 600XL and worked fine. You told me, David, that the 320K RAM card would replace the 64K RAM in the computer + provide 256K of RAMBO RAM and that is indeed what happens. Edited May 7 by rkindig 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMil2 Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 (edited) On 3/20/2024 at 2:22 PM, reifsnyderb said: Very Nice! I hope you can test it soon! If you address your card in the $D1xx range, you should go with $D1C0 or $D1E0. $D1C0 was reserved for speech, modem, and disk registers (presumably for the 1450XLD) but Atari didn't follow those rules. $D1E0 was originally marked as reserved but Atari didn't follow their own rules and used it for the parallel/serial interface card anyhow. $D1C0 is probably the safest but either $D1xx address should be safe. Any address between $D100 and $D1AF could potentially be temporarily used by a present or future card as that address range is used when cards are activated by setting their device ID in $D1FF. I am trying to only use addresses in the $D100-$D1AF range when a card has been activated. Not sure that this fits here, but I came across this printout of the XL Parallel bus: Almost forgot to add... NOT means normally low DavidMil XL Parallel Expansion Bus.pdf Edited May 10 by DavidMil2 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMil2 Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 15 hours ago, DavidMil2 said: Not sure that this fits here, but I came across this printout of the XL Parallel bus: Almost forgot to add... NOT means normally low DavidMil XL Parallel Expansion Bus.pdf 137.78 kB · 11 downloads Since I was talking about the XL bus, I thought I'd mention this too... I got the 50 wire cable yesterday, and when I cut it with my sheer for 40 wire cable the result was less the satisfying. So I got the idea of using our 81/2" x 11" paper cutter. It worked great! DavidMil2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reifsnyderb Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 13 minutes ago, DavidMil2 said: Since I was talking about the XL bus, I thought I'd mention this too... I got the 50 wire cable yesterday, and when I cut it with my sheer for 40 wire cable the result was less the satisfying. So I got the idea of using our 81/2" x 11" paper cutter. It worked great! DavidMil2 Very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMil2 Posted Monday at 09:05 PM Share Posted Monday at 09:05 PM After showing atari-passion's pictures from page 4 to my friend, he said it would be a lot easier to do the metal work in three separate pieces (front, back, and bottom) and then rivet or screw them together. That way the metal could be either aluminum or sheet steel. The top cover would have to be something like sheet metal to get the rounded edges. I'm trying to get a consensus here before going any further with the metal part of the 1090XL case. Let me know what you all think! DavidMil2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathy Posted Monday at 10:57 PM Share Posted Monday at 10:57 PM Hello David Are we talking stainless steel? Anything else would have to be painted. To make shipping easier/cheaper, it would probably be best to not assemble the housing/case but sell it as a kit. Which would mean it's best to screw/bolt everything together (after shipping!), since most people don't have access to a riveting tool. Sincerely Mathy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reifsnyderb Posted Tuesday at 12:33 AM Share Posted Tuesday at 12:33 AM 3 hours ago, DavidMil2 said: After showing atari-passion's pictures from page 4 to my friend, he said it would be a lot easier to do the metal work in three separate pieces (front, back, and bottom) and then rivet or screw them together. That way the metal could be either aluminum or sheet steel. The top cover would have to be something like sheet metal to get the rounded edges. I'm trying to get a consensus here before going any further with the metal part of the 1090XL case. Let me know what you all think! DavidMil2 Hopefully we'll soon have full blueprints as there is somebody, in the 1090XL Facebook Group, that has access to one and is planning to take precise measurements. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ Atari Posted Tuesday at 02:01 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 02:01 PM Regarding the 1090XL 2023 R10. There is a Gerber file but I didn't see the BOM. Is there one available (noting of course the schematic in the pdf has the info)? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reifsnyderb Posted Tuesday at 02:24 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 02:24 PM 17 minutes ago, CJ Atari said: Regarding the 1090XL 2023 R10. There is a Gerber file but I didn't see the BOM. Is there one available (noting of course the schematic in the pdf has the info)? Thanks! Hello, All of the KiCAD files were released for the R10 version. I probably didn't include a BOM. However, a BOM would not be too accurate as some of the components are optional. Here's a .pdf of the schematic. The notes explain some of the options. 1090.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ Atari Posted Tuesday at 02:40 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 02:40 PM 15 minutes ago, reifsnyderb said: Hello, All of the KiCAD files were released for the R10 version. I probably didn't include a BOM. However, a BOM would not be too accurate as some of the components are optional. Here's a .pdf of the schematic. The notes explain some of the options. 1090.pdf 1.17 MB · 0 downloads Thanks. Also just visited your Tindie Site. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMil2 Posted Wednesday at 08:44 AM Share Posted Wednesday at 08:44 AM On 5/13/2024 at 7:33 PM, reifsnyderb said: Hopefully we'll soon have full blueprints as there is somebody, in the 1090XL Facebook Group, that has access to one and is planning to take precise measurements. Man, that is what I've been praying for! I never heard back from atari-passion, so I was thinking I may ask Brad (Best) if I could look at his 1090 (of course that would involve a round trip to California). My good friend (Robert) said that stainless is a lot harder to work with then aluminum or sheet metal, and a little more expensive. Sheet metal would have to be painted, but there are grades of aluminum that won't tarnish so easily. He personally would recommend the sheet metal. Screws or nuts and bolts would work just as well as rivets. Pop Rivet guns can be bought at any hardware store or online for $20 to $30 dollars and make a very professional finish. Anyway, I intend to start the layout for the metal work, and then I'll adapt it to the actual measurements when I get them. DavidMil2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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