Coming Soon: New Atari Jaguar Arcade Controllers

[doubledown]

Back in 2019, I built my first, (and thus far only) arcade controller for the Atari Jaguar:

 

 

...this controller was sold to a member here at AA...and I knew that at some point, I would build myself a replacement.  This original controller was built via a "pad hack" wiring technique, using an original controller PCB, with a lot, of point-to-point wiring.  I decided long ago, that if I were to ever build any more Jaguar controllers, I would want to design a custom PCB...which would include a built-in keypad (as I've done for the ColecoVision and Intellivision), and which would make the wiring, much, much simpler than the pad-hack technique.  Alas...I've finally gotten around to this new PCB...and after testing this new design tonight, I'd like to reveal my new Atari Jaguar Arcade Controller PCB w/ Keypad:

 

 

The built-in keypad uses C&K D6 key-switch pushbuttons, which can be round (as pictured above) with their legends printed onto the CPO artwork, or they can be square, with their legends applied to the keypad pushbuttons themselves.  Here is a ColecoVision controller I built with the round buttons, with the legends printed on the CPO, as an example:

 

 

...and here is an Intellivision example, with the square buttons, and the legends on the pushbuttons themselves:

 

 

Lots of possibilities are available for sizes/features/options/hardware.  An 11" x 8", molded plastic enclosure with aluminum top plate, could be made...like this:

 

 

...with appropriate Jaguar artwork, and (3) 24mm pushbuttons...or a 14" x 8.5" aluminum enclosure could be made...like this:

 

 

...again with appropriate Jaguar artwork, and 3, or maybe 6, or maybe 8 pushbuttons...or an even larger 17" x 11.5" aluminum enclosure, like the one pictured at the start of this topic, or even possibly a 20" x 11.5" twin stick monster...like this:

 

 

...for games like Total Carnage and/or Llamatron 2112.  As of now, I've got 3 different variants I plan on building...1 for me, and 2 for others...so stay tuned, and dream of the possibilities. 

[+CyranoJ]

I can see the bottom one has the 6 buttons to 'emulate' the pro controller - how are you handling the shoulder buttons?

[dilinger]

Some years ago, I got this "arcade" controller. Homemade. It works fine and the quality is fine too.

[sirlynxalot]

Looks really cool! Nice job with the pcb design as well as the designs of the completed sticks you showed!

[42bs]

Hmm, just my two cents: If it could hold the standard overlays or custom made overlays, it'll be cool.

[doubledown]

8 hours ago, CyranoJ said:

I can see the bottom one has the 6 buttons to 'emulate' the pro controller - how are you handling the shoulder buttons?

Are you referring to wiring them, or their physical layout?  Wiring-wise, I already have dedicated solder pads for all 8 of the possible ProController buttons C/B/A, Z/Y/X, & L/R.  Layout-wise..."shoulder" buttons on a d-pad controller, when translated to an arcade-stick controller sometimes can get a bit dicey, and they don't always work perfectly/ergonomically for every game.  For the SNES, for which I've built 2 arcade sticks thus far...I've used 2 different shoulder button layouts...based on the owner's preference and the games that they were going to be played with.  Assuming a Jaguar arcade controller would already have the 6 Pro Pad style buttons...in 2 rows/arcs of three buttons...intended to be manipulated with your index, middle, and ring fingers on the 1st/lower row...then moving your fingers upward to access the 2nd/upper row.  Then there are 2 "standard options" for the L/R shoulder buttons.  The first would be to install them on either side of the lower/main row/arc of buttons...placing the L button on the left...to be manipulated with your thumb, and placing the R button on the right...to be manipulated with your pinky finger.  This set up normally works best for when the games that make use of these buttons...have the L button move/strafe/rotate your on-screen character left, and vice-versa with the R button.  The second option, would be to install the L/R as 4th buttons in each of 2 rows/arcs of pushbuttons...to the right of the existing 3 in each row...each to be manipulated with your pinky.  With either the L on the top row and the R on the bottom row...or vice-versa.  Games that use the L/R buttons as extra in-game buttons...that aren't necessarily providing definitive left and right "actions"...can make use of this layout very well.  

 

1 hour ago, sirlynxalot said:

Looks really cool! Nice job with the pcb design as well as the designs of the completed sticks you showed!

Well I try!

 

1 hour ago, 42bs said:

Hmm, just my two cents: If it could hold the standard overlays or custom made overlays, it'll be cool.

I'm sure it would be possible to 3D print a frame to "hold" the original overlays...for visual reference...below the keypad area...or, as I have used this same keypad layout (without the Pause/Option buttons) for Intellision controllers, with a functional overlay frame (as pictured above)...if someone wanted to make custom Jaguar overlays in the size/layout of the Intellivision overlays...then they could be used functionally.  All possibilities...would just add to the cost/complexity a bit.  

[+cubanismo]

Would you be willing to sell kits of parts? I love all your designs, but I feel like I might want a smaller twinstick than a 20x11 monster 😁 I only have so much room to dedicate to gaming gear, and of course you gotta have two, for two players. Or... Maybe one big two player obelisk of a controller with two PCBs?

 

Regardless, you've got my imagination going. I'll probably have to get at least one of these in some form.

[doubledown]

48 minutes ago, cubanismo said:

Would you be willing to sell kits of parts? I love all your designs, but I feel like I might want a smaller twinstick than a 20x11 monster 😁 I only have so much room to dedicate to gaming gear, and of course you gotta have two, for two players. Or... Maybe one big two player obelisk of a controller with two PCBs?

 

Regardless, you've got my imagination going. I'll probably have to get at least one of these in some form.

Some sort of DIY kit could be sold...could be either a fully assembled PCB (as pictured in the first post), a PCB +components "bag" for end-user soldering, or a bare PCB only, wherein the end-user supplies all of the components.  A smaller than 20" x 11.5" twin-stick can be built...I've done one such in the 14" x 8.5" aluminum enclosure variant for Robotron: 2084 for the ColecoVision/Ataris:

 

 

Obviously for a Jaguar twin-stick controller...the keypad could be in the middle (where the P1/P2 start buttons are above), and any pushbuttons, could be below the keypad...albeit not super ergonomic for games requiring the pushbuttons!  Then you'd have to figure what game(s) you're going to wire it for.  As I understand it...Total Carnage only needs 1 PCB as the 2nd joystick is wired as duplicate keypad keys, 2/8/4/6...but for Llamatron 2112, it would require a 2nd PCB, as this games uses a 2nd joystick plugged into the controller 2 port.  The other potential issue with a DIY kit...is how would an end-user accurately cut the tight-tolerance holes for the PCB mounting screws, and the clearance holes for the keypad keys.  I have a CNC mill at work:

 

 

...that allows for such accuracy...most don't...and I don't know how well they could be done with a hand drill, or even a drill press.   It's possible that a 3D printable underlay frame could be designed, that would mount underneath the control panel, that would "surround" the keypad buttons, so that only one "larger" rectangular hole (plus the mounting screw holes) would need to be cut...versus 14 keypad clearance holes...a possibility I suppose. 

[K3V]

Definitely interested! Years ago I hacked together a custom arcade stick that I attached to the front of my Jaguar kiosk, and it's a rat's nest in there. Is rotary control an option via your board, too?

[doubledown]

28 minutes ago, K3V said:

Definitely interested! Years ago I hacked together a custom arcade stick that I attached to the front of my Jaguar kiosk, and it's a rat's nest in there. Is rotary control an option via your board, too?

 

As I understand how a rotary encoder is wired for a "spinner control" for the Jaguar...it is simply wired in parallel with the joystick left/right/(common) contacts, ideally through a switch so that it can be disabled, assuming that the same controller also has a joystick...so that it can be turned off and won't cause interference when using the joystick control.  If my understanding is correct, than the encoder can either be daisy-chain wired from the joystick contacts at the joystick switches themselves, or double-taped at my PCB solder pads.  As of this first Rev. 1 PCB...I do not have "dedicated" solder pads for an encoder...but again, as I understand it, it shouldn't truly be necessary, but may be an additional option for a Rev. 2 PCB if needed (just for wiring simplification).  I plan to play around with the encoder wiring tonight and finally get some testing done with one...to see if it's really worth the hype.

[Zerosquare]

19 minutes ago, doubledown said:

As I understand how a rotary encoder is wired for a "spinner control" for the Jaguar...it is simply wired in parallel with the joystick left/right/(common) contacts, ideally through a switch so that it can be disabled, assuming that the same controller also has a joystick...so that it can be turned off and won't cause interference when using the joystick control.  If my understanding is correct, than the encoder can either be daisy-chain wired from the joystick contacts at the joystick switches themselves, or double-taped at my PCB solder pads.  As of this first Rev. 1 PCB...I do not have "dedicated" solder pads for an encoder...but again, as I understand it, it shouldn't truly be necessary, but may be an additional option for a Rev. 2 PCB if needed (just for wiring simplification).  I plan to play around with the encoder wiring tonight and finally get some testing done with one...to see if it's really worth the hype.

Yes, that's correct.

[doubledown]

Ok, so I got the encoder wired up for testing with Tempest 2000...and it does in fact work.  Does it work anywhere near as well as, or feel anything like the arcade version...no of course not, not even close...not by a mile, but it does in fact work as people say (please keep in mind that I'm a self-admitted controller snob...and only the best will do in my opinion):

 

 

My Bourns encoder, bottom left corner...to the left of the joystick...you may notice, features a proper Atari Tempest Arcade knob...not some "rando" knob ordered from an electronics parts supplier!  😁  In all honestly...it's actually only a $30 molded Atari Tempest reproduction knob, made by Arcade Adventures...because the real vintage ones seriously cost a small fortune (for a knob), when you can even find one.  But these reproductions are very well done, and are significantly less expensive than the originals.  I also have an STL file for a 3D printable version of this knob...for the budget-conscience...which will of course look/feel like a 3D printed knob, but are significantly cheaper than even the reproduction knobs.  So while I don't think the rotary controller on the Jaguar is as amazing as others may have touted it to be, it most certainly can be added to any Jaguar controller that I make...assuming there is enough room to install it ergonomically...and somebody wants it added.  Is it the vastly superior way to play Tempest 2000 on the Jaguar, when compared to a D-Pad or a Joystick...yes of course it is...but its certainly not perfect...but keep in mind I'm comparing it to the original Atari arcade spinners.  

 

Of additional note...in the upper left corner, are 2 clear plastic containers with colored buttons inside of them.  Those are the color options for the D6R keypad buttons...available in red, green, yellow, blue, white, grey, and black.  The obvious choices to me are grey, like the original controllers and the ProControllers, or black, like the 2nd gen. controllers.  Additionally as red is a prominent color of the Jaguar, red would also be an acceptable color choice...for either the entire array of 14 buttons...or maybe only the * and # buttons, (kind of like what ColecoVision did with their Hand Controllers), and/or maybe even the Pause / Options buttons could be red, or maybe even yellow, for a little bit of flash!  Any of the other colors...green, blue, or white...I think only make sense if making a "game themed" controller...where they make sense color-wise, like maybe yellow keypad buttons for a Total Carnage controller...matching the theme of the game...but that's just me.  

 

So for now, with all this rotary encoder business figured out, I will need to finalize the details regarding the 3 controllers that I have planned to build, finalize their layouts, design their artwork, order the necessary parts...and start building.  Probably be about a week or two, until I'll have at least the first completed controller to show off.  

[+Stephen]

5 hours ago, K3V said:

Definitely interested! Years ago I hacked together a custom arcade stick that I attached to the front of my Jaguar kiosk, and it's a rat's nest in there. Is rotary control an option via your board, too?

You still have that beast?  I felt bad I could not get your rotary working at that one Jag Fest.  Believe it or not, I still have my controller with the spinner.  Excuse the silver tape on the box - that was just keeping the prototype box held together.  You'll not, for easier maintenance, I made sure to make every single hookup wire the same colour.

 

[doubledown]

36 minutes ago, Stephen said:

Kind of reminiscent of the wiring on my first Jaguar controller, although I had my PCB secured with screws to the back face of the enclosure I used.  But all that wiring, to all those keypad buttons...is exactly the reason I finally decided to create my own PCB w/ Keypad before I did any more.  For a one-off, sure I bit the bullet, and wired it all by hand...but not any more.  

[doubledown]

I started playing around with some layouts today for possible Jaguar Controller configurations...just as a starting point...just to see what could even fit:

 

 

This is the Hammond 14" x 8.5" aluminum enclosure, with a Western joystick template (iL, SUZO HAPP or similar), my PCB w/ Keypad, and all 8 ProController buttons...as full sized 1-1/8" Western buttons, or 30mm Japanese buttons.  Ergonomically it's not "perfect"...as the main index finger button "C", is lower than the center-line of the joystick on the Y-axis, and the controls are a bit more outward, closer to the edges than I prefer...providing less hand support surface.  Ideally the "C" button would be at least equal to, or ideally 1/2" to 1" higher than the center of the joystick, but Western joysticks cannot be mounted any further downward in this enclosure, due to their mounting depths, and with all 8 buttons, the ergonomic array can't be mounted any higher.  A Japanese joystick, Seimitsu or Sanwa perhaps...can be mounted lower...all a matter of preference.  Alternatively, as mentioned previously, the "L" button could be installed above the "R" button (vs. below the "C" button, as (2) arcs of (4) buttons), or it could be that the "R" button is in the upper row, and the "L" button in the lower row...depends on what works best for the games its to be played with.  Also possible, only 6 buttons...without the shoulder buttons, or could also be the smaller Japanese 24mm pushbuttons...allowing for a better ergonomic placement...or also of course only 3 buttons.  There is enough room below the joystick to install an encoder / spinner control...assuming one could manipulate it with their left hand...me I cannot...I really need a rotary type control to be manipulated by my right hand...again personal preference.  Of course with a larger enclosure, the 17" x 11.5" or the 20" x 11.5"...these would offer more real estate for optimized control placement...and thus superior ergonomic layout options.  

 

I understand that for some, space-savings is their number one priority, due to limited "storage" / "allowable hobby" space.  But at the cost of ergonomics...and thus less enjoyment when actually using the controller...is it worth it?  But to each is own...and like I said, this was just an exercise to determine how much "stuff," could be "stuffed" into, the 14" aluminum enclosure.  I already know the limits of the PacTec PT-10 plastic enclosure, and I knew that everything could fit into the larger aluminum enclosures.  

 

If you have any thoughts/comments/concerns/ideas about the control layouts, please let me know.  I am by no means, the end-all, be-all expert, regarding the Jaguar and its game library, so others with more knowledge than I, especially regarding something that I maybe haven't thought of, please post.  And yes...the controls can obviously mirrored so that the joystick is on the right side of the control surface (buttons on the left)...for those weird-o left-handers out there.  

[tripled79]

[doubledown]

24 minutes ago, tripled79 said:

If I sold a controller every time someone posted some sentiment like this in one of my threads...I would have built and sold a lot more controllers!  🤣

 

In other news...I was playing around with some different keypad button colors/arrangements, vs. the All Grey one pictured in the first post:

 

All Black / All Red:

 

 

Red Pause & Option, All others Black / Yellow Pause & Option, All others Red (mimicking the yellow jaguar cat eyes over top of the red Jaguar text/logo, on the console box)

 

 

Red Pause & Option, Black Numbers, Red * and #

 

 

Lots of good/different options, that all fit within a proper "Jaguar" theme!

[+cubanismo]

On 6/21/2023 at 7:40 AM, doubledown said:

Then you'd have to figure what game(s) you're going to wire it for.

Uhg, yes, hadn't thought about that. Ideally there'd be a switch to choose either config with two PCBs internally, but that's a *lot* of lines to switch.

 

I had been thinking a kit of just high-quality buttons/joystick + PCB, but you're right I hadn't really thought much about the physical manufacturing of the enclosure. Interesting. I don't have a CNC mill, but I assume there are maker spaces around here that do. Have to give that more thought.

[doctorclu]

I have a Super Mas Pro Stick that came out for a while.   That's been a good controller.

[doubledown]

16 minutes ago, cubanismo said:

Uhg, yes, hadn't thought about that. Ideally there'd be a switch to choose either config with two PCBs internally, but that's a *lot* of lines to switch.

There is a C&K F-series latching/indicating pushbutton switch that I use often, that is DT...and is available with either 2, 4, 6, 8, or 10 poles...so its absolutely possible.  You would need to switch 8 poles...4 microswitches, N.O. and common contacts on each switch, so that it could connect the 2nd joystick to the keypad buttons on PCB 1 for Total Carnage, or the directional contacts on PCB 2 for Llamatron.  It would just add to the cost.

 

23 minutes ago, cubanismo said:

I had been thinking a kit of just high-quality buttons/joystick + PCB, but you're right I hadn't really thought much about the physical manufacturing of the enclosure. Interesting. I don't have a CNC mill, but I assume there are maker spaces around here that do. Have to give that more thought.

Unless its one of my special VVG modified/engineered joysticks...I wouldn't sell any loose control hardware like joysticks and buttons.  They are readily available online from all the vendors I buy mine from.

As I do not buy hardware in mass quantities from China or the likes, there is really no reason to buy these types of loose controls from me.

 

Might be some sort of service available to machine an enclosure for you....I'm not sure, I do all of my own work, from overall design, artwork, machining, assembly, and wiring.

 

17 minutes ago, doctorclu said:

I have a Super Mas Pro Stick that came out for a while.   That's been a good controller.

I vaguely remember those MAS sticks.  Does yours have a full keypad for the Jaguar, or do you have to use a Jaguar controller for keypad inputs?

 

[doctorclu]

1 hour ago, doubledown said:

I vaguely remember those MAS sticks.  Does yours have a full keypad for the Jaguar, or do you have to use a Jaguar controller for keypad inputs?

 

Yeh on this one, which might have been the prototype, the regular Jag controller was off to the side to use the keypad.

[doubledown]

Well I got the layout finished last night for what will be the smallest Jaguar controller I can make (as everybody likes "small"), which will be a Joystick Controller, Mk. II.  That will be built into an 11" x 8" PacTec PT-10 molded ABS enclosure.  I'm still working on a few other variants...including maybe a dedicated/stand-alone Rotary Controller...have to wait and see.  I ordered a batch of enclosures last night, and some other fiddly bits I needed, which should all arrive Thursday...and I've already got a bunch of hardware (joystick/pushbuttons) in stock, so hopefully over the long weekend I should be able to get the first few units finished up and revealed.  

[doubledown]

Here are the possible "generic" controls layouts for use with 2 of the Hammond Mfg. 1456-series, aluminum enclosures...14" x 8.5" left column, and 17" x 11.5" right column:

 

 

There is a bit of ergonomic loss with the 6-button and 8-button configurations...in the 14" x 8.5" enclosures (left/middle, left/bottom)...as the C button ends up below the center-line of the joystick.  But for any of the other 4 configurations, there is enough room to either move the buttons up, or the joystick down, so that the C button is 0.5" higher than the center-line of the joystick.  With any of these "generic" layouts, a rotary control (Spinner) can be installed below the joystick.  

 

[danny_galaga]

Wow! Fantastic! 

[doubledown]

Got my enclosures today...all ~$400.00 worth:

 

 

(1) 20 x 11.5, (2) 17 x 11.5, (2) 14 x 8.5, (2) 11 x 8

 

Then, starting to work on what will be my first of the new Jaguar controllers:

 

Starting with drab:

 

 

...and finishing with fab:

 

 

...all cut auto-magically, within a few short minutes...while I, was doing other, obviously more important things.  I hope I didn't forget any holes.  😉