Coming Soon: New Atari Jaguar Arcade Controllers

[doubledown]

 Please note, there is no hostility, negativity, or animosity in this post...I'm just stating how I feel.  Too often, when others read text, they may infer or interpret a specific negative tone, that is not intended.  😁   This is all just super happy fun times!  😊

 

@Machine

 

I completely understand what you are saying, and I should probably clarify my point(s). 

 

I, think using a turbo button is cheating...but like you said, others may not share my same opinion, and it may make the game more enjoyable...for them.  I, personally don't care if other people use turbo buttons (it doesn't bother me)...I, just opt not to.  And because I, don't use them...I, don't personally have much interest in adding them to my controllers, that I'm, building.  

 

Could I add a turbo feature to a controller...probably, but like I said, it's nothing that I'm super gung-ho about pursuing as I don't use them. 

 

But, if added, you then have to determine how many buttons will have the feature..1, 2, 3, 8?  Would they need a "rate-adjustability" potentiometer and knob?  Would they need on/off switches to enable/disable them?  Would they need LEDs to indicate that they are active?  All of these items add more hardware costs, and more complexity (labor costs), to already expensive controllers...but again...I'm sure its possible.  

[Machine]

I never took it as hostel. All good. Sorry if came off that way.

I was just pointing out if you are making a Raiden controller, it would be a welcomed addition.

I get the hassle of adding it and the additional cost might make it a "no-go"

 

I agree that a turbo would be cheating if you are playing against someone or posting score or the like.

The constant mashing of a button through an entire game makes it less enjoyable for me.

100% the turbo makes the game easier.

 

 

 

 

[doubledown]

@Machine

 

No...I didn't take your response as hostile...I just didn't want my response to be misconstrued as hostile either...so I just wanted to call that out.  

 

Again, the main reason I would never add a turbo button to this Raiden Experience controller (even though this Raiden controller could use one, for those who would like it)...is because my Experience controllers are built to replicate the arcade experience with as much accuracy as possible...and the original arcade game didn't have a turbo button...that is why I am so adamant about not including it, specifically on this particular model.  

 

Case in point...a few years back I wanted to build a Gauntlet experience controller for the Sega Genesis port of Gauntlet...but I would only build it, if I could source the rare, original, Atari arcade joystick used in the original arcade cabinets.  I found a guy that had a set of 4 that he wouldn't break up, for around $400 ($100 a piece)...

 

 

...so I bought all 4 of them...so I could build this:

 

I played a lot of Gauntlet in the arcade at the local bowling alley as a kid, and I have a lot of fond memories, and to this day a passionate love for this game, and I wanted to be able to play it like I did in the arcades when I was a kid.  Side note, I did end up building 4 of these (using all 4 joysticks)...I sold 2...and I have 2 for myself.  It's my just my overzealous and passionate commitment to my craft I guess!

[doubledown]

I received my Total Carnage CPO today, and I've started playing around with scanning/cropping/editing of the artwork:

 

 

...This is just a very small, low-quality image, I'm starting with for test purposes.  Overall...the CPO is enormous...something like 36+" x 14+".  So I think, I'll end up re-drawing all of the simple/geometric/shape artwork, and using from the scans...only the character artwork, and maybe some text, that I don't have the ability to draw.  This way, I'll be able to make the "characters" a bit smaller, so that I can install the keypad between the joysticks like I was thinking about...without several keypad buttons coming up through Captain Carnage's and Major Mayhem's faces/bodies.  

[doubledown]

Well I've finally hammered out the last detail regarding hardware, and thus now have the ability to calculate pricing, for any of these Jaguar controllers...which was regarding the controller cable.  For any DE-9 (9-pin) controller cable I need (Atari 2600/8-Bit, ColecoVision, Intellivision, and the likes)...I make my own cables.  I buy 500' spools of Tensility 9-conductor cable, and I use black/plastic, AMP, 9-pin connectors, that I custom crimp/assemble myself...which allows me to to use a high quality cable, that I can make any length, and any pinout that I want.  Others simply use stiff, ~6' extension cables from China, lop off one end, then what's left externally, is approximately 5' (or less)...and I've read that the failure rate of these cables is pretty bad.  So I was looking to figure out what I could do to come up with a high quality 12-conductor cable, and the DE-15 end that I need, for these Jaguar controllers.  And here are the 2 options that I will offer (unless someone has a better idea...but please see final note near the end of this post):

 

 

On the left is an OEM Atari Jaguar controller cable.  Back in 2019 when I built my first controller, I was able to buy these as new replacement parts (so I bought myself a few)...but these are no longer available.  What is available is to purchase, are new Atari Jaguar controllers, from which to salvage this cable from.  My PCB is designed to directly accept the factory installed header connector, but a special split-design cord grip is required so that the factory end doesn't need to be disassembled for entry into the controller enclosure.  Remember...my time, is money.  As of right now...for as long as the supply can last, I can get the controllers for ~$20, and the special cord grip for around $15, which means ~$35 of hardware cost, plus the labor to de-solder the cable from the controller's PCB (say $5-ish), would install an OEM Atari Jaguar controller cable into one of my controllers, and the cable length external to the controller, would be approximately 7'. 

 

On the right, is a 15' Amphenol data cable (not a VGA cable), that is fully, 15-pin populated, with DE-15 ends, with unlimited availability, which costs ~$22.  I would lop off the male plug end (with female sockets), enter the enclosure through a standard $4 cord grip, strip back the jacket, dress the conductors with crimp-on wire ferrules (pieces in the little baggie), then install an $11 Phoenix Contact or T.E., 12-position fixed, screw-terminal block, for termination of the conductors to the PCB.  Which means, for ~$37, I could install this cable into one of of my controllers, which would provide an external cable length of approximately 14' (double that of the factory Atari cables).  This Amphenol data cable is a bit thicker/heavier than the OEM Atari cables, but as you can see by the tight coil it maintains in the picture, is still very flexible, it plugs in, and holds nice and firmly into the controller ports on the Jaguar console (even a bit more firmly than the OEM connectors), and I am easily able to remove the factory PC locking screws that it came with...that are not needed for the Jaguar.  Of course I wish this cable was black...but you can't have everything.  

 

These ~$38 prices...are about in the middle of my initial estimates of $25 - $50 for this cable solution...so not as bad as it could be. 

 

Final Note: I am sure there are plenty of cheaper ways to accomplish this...cables from China, or some other concept...but unless its something sourced from suppliers/vendors here in the U.S., made by brand-name quality companies...I'm not interested in knowing about it...as I won't use it.  

 

FYI...these Amphenol cables work perfectly as Jaguar controller extension cables, as long as you buy the M/F version...which is what I bought for testing (I tested it tonight).  I know I've read where people were having a hard time finding something for a Jaguar extension cable...as sometimes they bought VGA cables to try (because they have the same ends)...but as VGA cables aren't fully pinned thru 1-1, they won't work.  These are available in lengths of 1.5', 2.5', 5', 7', 10', 15', and 25'...and here is the LINK for the 15' that I bought...in case anybody needs extension cables for their Jaguar controllers, for their setup.  

 

Now that this is all figured out...I can get onto working on the artwork, for my Total Carnage controller...so stay tuned.  

[doubledown]

Well its been a long, hard weekend of work...but I think it was worth it.  Presenting my:

 

Total Carnage (C.C.) XL Edition - VVG Experience+ Controller

 

 

For the hardware details of this model:

 

** Hammond Mfg., 20" x 11.5", aluminum enclosure (braced and weighted)

 

** (2) iL EuroJoystick 2, 8-way microswitch joysticks (Sg. -2-1/8), w/ Cherry (ZF) D44X microswitches, w/ bat levers (short), red

 

** VVG Jaguar PCB, w/ Keypad, w/ C&K D6R key-switch pushbuttons, (14) red

 

** iL PSL-C pushbuttons, w/ Cherry (ZF) D41X microswitches, (3) black, (1) red

 

** Rear mounted cord cleats for cable management

 

** Total Carnage inspired CPO graphics

 

With the left "Move" joystick, the center mounted keypad, and the (3) black pushbuttons off to the right...this is simply your average, ordinary, run-of-the-mill arcade controller, for the Atari Jaguar.  😁  But, with the left "Move" joystick, the right "Fire" joystick, and the "Start/Bomb" pushbutton, located centered above the keypad...this, is a perfectly accurate reproduction, of the hardware controls (including spacing/layout) from the original Total Carnage arcade cabinets...and never before, has there been a finer, more arcade accurate way to play Total Carnage, on the Atari Jaguar...that I know of.  😁 

 

Even with an enclosure this big...I couldn't replicate the CPO graphics exactly the same as they were on the arcade cabinets...partially, as I wanted to install the keypad in between the joysticks.  So I opted to move Captain Carnage over to the right side, below the "general-use" Jaguar pushbuttons, so that I could still include him as a large graphic...versus some very small, tiny little image, squeezed in beneath the keypad.  The 2nd "Fire" joystick, is wired as duplicate keypad buttons 2/4/6/8 for Up/Left/Right/Down directional shooting/firing...which allows you to play the game, truly, as a twin-stick shooter as intended.  And the "Start/Bomb" pushbutton, is wired as a duplicate C button, and it is physically installed as it is, on the original arcade cabinets...for an arcade accurate, and authentic, gameplay experience.  

 

Of course a controller "like" this, could also be built into the smaller 17" x 11.5" enclosure, or, the even smaller 14" x 8.5" enclosure...it would just sacrifice some of features/options, layout accuracy, and graphics...depending on what hardware was installed, and where it was located.  Enjoy!

[+Saturn]

52 minutes ago, doubledown said:

Well its been a long, hard weekend of work...but I think it was worth it.  Presenting my:

 

Total Carnage (C.C.) XL Edition - VVG Experience+ Controller

 

 

For the hardware details of this model:

 

** Hammond Mfg., 20" x 11.5", aluminum enclosure (braced and weighted)

 

** (2) iL EuroJoystick 2, 8-way microswitch joysticks (Sg. -2-1/8), w/ Cherry (ZF) D44X microswitches, w/ bat levers (short), red

 

** VVG Jaguar PCB, w/ Keypad, w/ C&K D6R key-switch pushbuttons, (14) red

 

** iL PSL-C pushbuttons, w/ Cherry (ZF) D41X microswitches, (3) black, (1) red

 

** Rear mounted cord cleats for cable management

 

** Total Carnage inspired CPO graphics

 

With the left "Move" joystick, the center mounted keypad, and the (3) black pushbuttons off to the right...this is simply your average, ordinary, run-of-the-mill arcade controller, for the Atari Jaguar.  😁  But, with the left "Move" joystick, the right "Fire" joystick, and the "Start/Bomb" pushbutton, located centered above the keypad...this, is a perfectly accurate reproduction, of the hardware controls (including spacing/layout) from the original Total Carnage arcade cabinets...and never before, has there been a finer, more arcade accurate way to play Total Carnage, on the Atari Jaguar...that I know of.  😁 

 

Even with an enclosure this big...I couldn't replicate the CPO graphics exactly the same as they were on the arcade cabinets...partially, as I wanted to install the keypad in between the joysticks.  So I opted to move Captain Carnage over to the right side, below the "general-use" Jaguar pushbuttons, so that I could still include him as a large graphic...versus some very small, tiny little image, squeezed in beneath the keypad.  The 2nd "Fire" joystick, is wired as duplicate keypad buttons 2/4/6/8 for Up/Left/Right/Down directional shooting/firing...which allows you to play the game, truly, as a twin-stick shooter as intended.  And the "Start/Bomb" pushbutton, is wired as a duplicate C button, and it is physically installed as it is, on the original arcade cabinets...for an arcade accurate, and authentic, gameplay experience.  

 

Of course a controller "like" this, could also be built into the smaller 17" x 11.5" enclosure, or, the even smaller 14" x 8.5" enclosure...it would just sacrifice some of features/options, layout accuracy, and graphics...depending on what hardware was installed, and where it was located.  Enjoy!

Holy crap! That is amazing. I'm definitely on board for a TC custom dual stick like this.

[doubledown]

FYI...I've started a new topic with final pricing, and as an interest check thread, for some of these controllers:

 

HERE

 

...please check it out, if you are interested in these controllers.  

[doubledown]

I received the "split-style" cord grips in today that I ordered for testing...which I will install when I use an OEM Atari cable:

 

 

Basically you order the Icotek QVT split cable gland (45692) (contents of the little plastic baggie, (2 locking halves, rubber washer, and installation nut)) appropriately sized, so that your cable, with its pre-terminated end, can fit through the mounting hole.  In my case I wanted the OEM cable's crimped header pin assembly, and the factory molded grip to fit though, so that I wouldn't have to disassemble and/or remove either of these...which in this case, uses the smallest, 16mm variant (5/8" mounting hole).  Then you select the QT cable grommet (42504), sized for the diameter and the quantity of cables that you wish to enter through the gland assembly...in this pictured/assembled instance above, the single 4mm grommet...to provide a nice, tight, firm grip on the cable.  They also offer a dual 4mm grommet (lower right corner)...which I can use for a twin-stick controller wired for Llamatron...as this game requires 2 controllers, and thus 2 cables.  

 

Of course I wish they were black and not grey...but as they are on the backside of the controller enclosure, I don't consider this to be that big of an issue, aesthetics-wise.  The big benefit of these, is that they save the 10-20 minutes or so, of de-pinning the factory header connector, and the carefully cutting off of, the adhered, molded, factory cable grip.  Either of which, can lead to damage of the cable/conductors if not careful...and then there's always the possibility of incorrectly ordering the pins when reassembling (if it has to be disassembled).  Just a little extra bit of cost, to save a bit of time, and the potential installation headaches.

[doubledown]

So I found out / realized recently...that with a pretty simple, and completely passive cable adapter, a Jaguar controller can be used on an Atari 2600, Atari 8-Bit, and/or Atari 7800 (1-button compatible).  Normally one might think...ehh...I don't really want to use a Jaguar Control Pad for these systems...but maybe...just maybe, someone getting one of my Jaguar arcade controllers, might want to use one of these controllers, with their other/older Atari systems.  I made an adapter for myself tonight, to test it out:

 

 

So with this 15-pin female, to 9-pin female, adapter cable, you can use any Jaguar controller, including any of my Jaguar arcade-type controllers, on a 2600, 8-bit, and/or 7800 (1-button compatible).  You get use of the 8-way d-pad (or joystick), and any/all of the C/B/A buttons...act as the single Atari fire button.  

 

Here is the wiring guide for anybody wanting to make one of these for themselves:

 

 

I know that Best Electronics sells a cable like this for about $17, so if you're not so inclined to build one for yourself, you can always buy one or more from them.  Enjoy!

[doubledown]

After playing a few games of Wolfenstein 3d recently, I decided to go ahead and build myself a "keyboard" controller (all buttons) for the Jaguar, specifically for Wolfenstein 3d.  I just can't enjoy this game with a Jaguar Control Pad, and it feels weird playing it with a joystick...I'm just too use to playing these types of games with a keyboard, like I've used on PCs for year and years.  So unveiling my:

 

Wolfenstein 3d Edition - VVG Keyboard Controller

 

 

For the hardware details of this model:

 

** Hammond Mfg., 16" x 8" x 2", steel enclosure (flat-top)

 

** VVG Jaguar PCB, w/ Keypad, w/ C&K D6R key-switch pushbuttons, (6) red / white

 

** Sanwa OBSF-24 pushbuttons, (10) Dark Hai & Red, w/ (7) A.S. classic concave caps

 

** Rear mounted cord cleats for cable management

 

** Wolfenstein 3d inspired CPO graphics

 

 

At my right hand, are 4 pushbuttons wired to Up/Down/Left/Right, w/ concave caps on the Up/Left/Right pushbuttons.  At my left hand, are 6 pushbuttons wired to C/B/A/5, and Pause/Option, w/ concave caps on the C/B/A/5 pushbuttons.  And the keypad area, has only the necessary remaining buttons...1/2/3 for game saving, 0 for toggling the music on/off, and */# for resetting the game.  Initially I was going to make a "universal" keyboard controller, for all FPS games on the Jaguar, but then I got the idea for the artwork and the color scheme for a Wolfenstein 3D version, and decided to build it as a dedicated controller.  I'll probably make myself a dedicated Doom version at some point here soon, once I finalize the artwork.  Enjoy!

[Machine]

I wonder how Rebooteroids would play with that?

 

[doubledown]

13 hours ago, Machine said:

I wonder how Rebooteroids would play with that?

I'm not sure about this exact, particular, version (button layout, and available buttons), but as the arcade cabinets of Asteroids used an all button control-scheme...something like this should work very well for Rebooteroids.  I would need to see the manual to know which controls are necessary for the game.  Then for me, it would depend on how the shooting "works"...to determine if I could use this controller for Rebooteroids.  If its "hold the button down" for constant shooting...then I could use this layout, it you have to hit the button repeatedly/rapidly for each shot...then I would want a mirrored layout...with directional controls on the left, and firing/thrust controls on the right.  Additionally, as I have seen that Rebooteroids has a Co-Op mode...one could make a "twin-keyboard" configuration controller (like twin-stick, but with 2 sets of buttons), with 2 PCBs & 2 cables, so that you would control the ship's direction & thrust with one hand's buttons, and control the firing, including the independent firing direction, with the other hand's buttons.  So many possibilities.  

[CanadianTenor]

That is an absolutely incredible Wolfenstein 3d controller. I played this game for hours upon hours on the PC only when it came out. I have zero knowledge on the Jag, but just watched a YouTube vid of the Jag version and it blows the PC version out of the water. I wish I had a Jag back in the day to play this iconic game. My experience playing this game is using a keyboard - this controller would take the gaming experience to a new level - just wow!

[captainblack]

Im a big fight stick fan, but something like this is always going to have challenges commanding the funds needed to actually make it worth the time and money that goes into these. Someone who doesnt love fight sticks is not going to pay $350+ for one and someone who loves them enough to pay that probably already knows how to make them on their own. Then theres the problem that the Jag has 2-3 arcade style shmups and like 5 fighting games? It would essentially just be a stick for playing Raiden. 

[doubledown]

I read all over the internet where people talk about "fight sticks," in general...or the building of them, specifically...but what I can't determine is, if what these folks refer to as a "fight stick"...is the same thing, or something somehow different, than what I (and others of similar age to me, 47) refer to as simply a "joystick" based controller (or arcade stick).  For me, as one who grew up with an Atari 2600 (with it's CX-40 joysticks), and arcade games (of all different types of gameplay) that featured a joystick/button control-scheme...I am very use to, and am very accustom to, using a joystick for playing all sorts of different game types...not just modern fighting games, or bullet-hell shooters.  It seems like younger people (younger than me, that is), who grew up significantly later than I did...are just not use to a "joystick" type of controller, for normal, every-day gameplay...as perhaps they grew up with only d-pad controllers or analog-stick controllers, and/or perhaps arcades just weren't around any more for them...and to them, one would only use a "joystick" (fight-stick) type controller, for a fighting game, or for a shooter game.  But for those of use who grew up in the "before times", when arcades were still prevalent, and relevant (early 80s - mid 90s)...the joystick controller was basically the end-all, be-all (and often times the only) option for most gameplay...with the exception of course of rotary control games, and driving control games, and a few others.  I would argue that the bulk of the Jaguar game library is equally well-suited to be played with either a joystick type controller, or a Jaguar control pad...it just depends on what the user's preference is...again possibly based on age, and thus what they're more accustom to.  But again, as I mentioned, I grew up with "joysticks" as the norm.  

[Punisher5.0]

@doubledown

 

Most people would consider this a fight stick (with the 8 action buttons)

 

[doubledown]

30 minutes ago, Punisher5.0 said:

@doubledown

 

Most people would consider this a fight stick (with the 8 action buttons)

Ok...so basically just a joystick controller (not something crazy that I'm unaware of)...granted, with possibly the inclusion of, as many as 8 buttons...as needed.  I'll admit that I've never been much for fighting games other than the Virtua Fighter series...as I was a big Sega fanboy back in the day...Genesis w/ CD & 32X (day 1 purchase), Saturn (day 1 purchase), and Dreamcast (day 1 purchase).  I'm not sure how many modern fighting games actually use all 8 buttons uniquely, but I do know that the early incarnations of Mortal Kombat (5 buttons), Street Fighter (6 buttons), Tekken (4 buttons), and Virtua Fighter (3 buttons), definitely didn't use that many.  People have to make things too complicated!  😁

[Machine]

19 hours ago, captainblack said:

Im a big fight stick fan, but something like this is always going to have challenges commanding the funds needed to actually make it worth the time and money that goes into these. Someone who doesnt love fight sticks is not going to pay $350+ for one and someone who loves them enough to pay that probably already knows how to make them on their own. Then theres the problem that the Jag has 2-3 arcade style shmups and like 5 fighting games? It would essentially just be a stick for playing Raiden. 

 

Having owned the very first Jaguar stick that doubledown made, I think it is worth every penny. It is a good chunk of money, but having used one, it's well worth it. I always find it funny when people say you can make it yourself cheaper. Of course, you can. No one is gonna make something and then sell it for cost or less than cost.

 

Doubledown's time, craftmanship, experience in building, etc. is worth every single penny. No one is gonna be disappointed with one of his controllers. They are extremely professional!

 

 

[+Biff Burgertime]

I don't own a Jaguar and the only home arcade stick I've ever had is the godly Dreamcast Arcade Stick, plus a Randnet DC->USB adapter if I care to use it on PC or  Pi.

 

However, I just want to point out that I've stumbled into @doubledown's threads in the past and salivated over the images I saw, and now it's happening 10x over here. The sheer quality of those sticks + the cool factor of the Jaguar's branding, it's a match made in heaven.

 

I know some weirdo on the internet drooling at photos probably won't fund new hardware anytime soon (then again... ASMR, OnlyFans, the shit people do on Twitch. Maybe there's a market.). But nonetheless, I felt the need to express my appreciation.

[JGrove]

On 7/19/2023 at 7:05 PM, doubledown said:

In other exciting news...I got my Raiden controller finished tonight.  Now for some, making a Raiden themed controller...they may simply take some generic Raiden artwork...like the marquee art for example:

 

 

...and simply stretch it, and skew it, to fit their control panel size...and place the controls, wherein, they may pop up through the letters, or other artwork, or some such similar.  But for me, when I'm making one of my VVG Experience Controllers, I'm trying to replicate the original arcade cabinet/experience as much as possible, including the control hardware used, as well as the proper CPO artwork.  So, without further ado, presenting my:

 

Raiden Edition - VVG Experience Controller

 

 

Now what I found out during the research for this controller, is that there were no dedicated Raiden arcade cabinets built/sold...at least not in North America, as it seems.  Raiden was developed by Seibu Kaihatsu, published by Fabtek in North America, and sold as conversion kits for older/existing arcade cabinets.  Since it could be installed into a wide variety of existing cabinets, with a wide variety of control panel sizes and shapes, their CPO artwork was simply their company logo, in a wallpaper-like repeating pattern, that came on a large enough sheet to cover any control panel...and the installer/operator, would simply trim the excess after application.  Additionally, as these kits could be installed into any number of arcade cabinets, where the controls were located/orientated...was basically dependent on what the original cabinet had to start with, or, the installer/operator, could make new holes, and install the hardware where they wanted.  The only mention in the arcade manual with regards to the layout, is the the joystick is on the left, and that the "left" of the two buttons is the main "Shoot" button, and that the "right" of the two buttons is the secondary "Bomb" button.  The other hardware mention in the arcade manual is with regards to  the joystick that came with the kit...which was a HAPP Super 8-way joystick. 

 

Fortunately for me, SUZO HAPP still makes the Super joystick...unfortunately for me, it's not made to mount into low profile, then metal enclosures like this.  I've modified the joystick to lower its overall bat knob height by 0.80", and cut some excess/unnecessary length from the actuator and the bottom of the shaft, so that its height is appropriate for a lap/table-top controller like this, and so that it fits into this enclosure.  There are a couple of other models of joysticks that I could have easily installed, that wouldn't have required all of the modifications...but like I said...I try to use the original specified control hardware, in these types of controllers. 

 

Now, as Raiden only requires 2 buttons...theoretically this controller should only have 2 buttons...but to also allow this controller to be a general-use "any game" Jaguar controller, I did install a 3rd black button...and I chose black specifically so that it would blend in with the artwork, as to not be so noticeable.  I also included a full keypad...with the Pause and Option buttons being the larger, 2, white arcade pushbuttons at the top...simulating the arcade's P1/P2 start buttons, and for the smaller 12 keypad number keys, I installed them in rows of white, black, black, and white...again, so that they also would blend in with the artwork, so as to not be so noticeable...while still creating a full featured Atari Jaguar arcade controller. 

 

Then, one last thing special to this controller...which can't really be seen in the picture...is the latching/indicating pushbutton switch, mounted above the joystick, and to the left of the Pause / Options buttons...that when in "Jaguar" mode...wires the 3 pushbuttons as the Jaguar standard order of C / B / A (for all games other than Raiden)...but when in "Raiden" mode...it rewires them so that their order is now B / C / A...so that you can play Raiden properly (and other games if applicable), wherein the red, index finger operated button, is the "Shoot" button, and the blue, middle finger operated button is the "Bomb" button.  

 

For the hardware details of this model:

 

** Hammond Mfg., 14" x 8.5", aluminum enclosure (braced and weighted)

 

** VVG/SUZO HAPP Super 8-way microswitch joystick (Sg. -1), w/ Cherry (ZF) D42X microswitches

 

** VVG Jaguar PCB, w/ Keypad, w/ C&K D6R key-switch pushbuttons, (12) black / white

 

** iL PSL-C pushbuttons, w/ Cherry (ZF) D41X microswitches, (2) white (Pause / Option), (3) red, blue, black (C / B / A)

 

** C&K F-Series, 4PDT, latching/indicating pushbutton switch, (Black/White)...used to swap pushbutton order between - "Jaguar" (C / B / A), and "Raiden" (B / C / A)

 

** Rear mounted cord cleats for cable management

 

** Fabtek Raiden inspired CPO graphics

 

Enjoy!

This arcade Stick goes HARD AF. I’d love to have that or, if not THAT one, one built like it