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THECXSTICK joystick performance


chad5200

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25 minutes ago, CartoonDan said:

It looks like I will have to try this solution too. Could you give the steps you took to do this? The last time I tried taking apart my 8bitdo controller it was hard to get back together again will all the small parts.

It was really simple:

 

1) Take the four rubber feet off the bottom, I just used my fingers.

2) Unscrew the four screws that you have just exposed

3) The controller will now come apart, partially unscrew the two screws holding the circuit board to the top part of the joystick

4) Test!

 

I have just decided to completely remove the two circuit board screws to see how that effects it, my 'gorilla grip' is clearly not forgiven by this controller, maybe it will be now.🤷🏻🤣

EDIT: It seemed like there was no improvement so I screwed them back in, very loosely. I think the idea of a spacer underneath the board would be perfect, but I don't think I have anything, I will have a rummage around.

 

EDIT:

All this is from the person who was categorically not going to take the joystick apart. 🤣

Edited by JetmanUK
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1 hour ago, Fred_M said:

I have opened my cxstick and sadly it is a very cheaply made joystick. The directional "switches" are not switches at all. I don't know how it is called, but it is just a simple plastic rubbery circle with 4 pads that shorts the metal pads on the pcb. It is the same as you can find in many d-pads. So no switches for the directions, just an altered d-pad that has to function as a joystick 😞

 

DSC03655.thumb.JPG.cb839c564429ed4bde9893b587dc1657.JPG

Its made like THEC64 Joystick, to keep the cost of it down, Atari Joystick never had switches, only rubber or clickers with Sellotape over them so they made a click noise when you pressed the fire button, they were the older joysticks.
it uses the same USB IC as THEC64 Joystick/THEGamepad, the GH001 IC top left.

Edited by Spanner
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22 minutes ago, Spanner said:

Maybe add a spacer to the screws that holds the PCB in place, under the PCB so the PCB is not so close to the stick, it might be touching the contacts on the PCB.

Screenshot 2024-03-29 155619.png
it could be missing spacers so why your plays up and mine works OK, I have to have a look and see.

 

It is not touching any contacts on the PCB because there are not any ;-) Personally I would not use a spacer, because the PCB will be held tight again. I am talking about just a very slight loosing it up, less than a millimeter.

Edited by Fred_M
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1 minute ago, Spanner said:

Its made like THEC64 Joystick, to keep the cost of it down, Atari Joystick never had switches, only rubber or clickers with Sellotape over them so they made a click noise.

I know I have many of them ;-) That way of clickers work much better than this d-pad thing ;-)

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11 minutes ago, JetmanUK said:

It was really simple:

 

1) Take the four rubber feet off the bottom, I just used my fingers.

2) Unscrew the four screws that you have just exposed

3) The controller will now come apart, partially unscrew the two screws holding the circuit board to the top part of the joystick

4) Test!

 

I have just decided to completely remove the two circuit board screws to see how that effects it, my 'gorilla grip' is clearly not forgiven by this controller, maybe it will be now.🤷🏻🤣

 

EDIT:

This is from the person who was categorically not going to take the joystick apart. 🤣

 

These steps are correct. It is best to leave the PCB where it is, because when you take out the PCB it is quite hard to get it back in again correctly. The big USB wire inside gets in the way quite easily.

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31 minutes ago, JetmanUK said:

OK Here's my update!

My theory on overtightened screws WAS indeed correct!

 

Loosening the two screws I achieved a usable joystick, left is now very reliable, right, which was previously almost always down is now... good... not perfect. Now perhaps some things will shift a little now they have been loosened, maybe it will improve, we will see. I am disappointed I needed to do this and it is still not perfect either.

 

I think the issue rears it’s head when I grip the stick firmer and push harder with the stick, if you have a very light touch you may be OK with a dodgy stick and never notice, but I have played how I have played with a CX40 since the early 80s so I wont be changing this easily. Also, other sticks like the original CX40, the CX40+ and the Flashback CX40’s don't give me this trouble so buyers beware if you have a manly grip!

 

I am happy I shared my theory on this and well done to @Fred_M for trying it first! :)

 Good to hear that it worked for you too!!

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1 minute ago, CartoonDan said:

I loosened the screws and the stick feel looser. When playing Bruce Lee I still get ducking when running left or right sometimes. I find I still have to use the controller gently in order to stay in control.

Yep, this stick was not tested on us manly men! 💪🏻🤣

Cancel your gym memberships!

 

Soft touch only need apply. 

Edited by JetmanUK
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6 minutes ago, JetmanUK said:

Yep, this stick was not tested on us manly men! 💪🏻🤣

Cancel your gym memberships!

 

Soft touch only need apply. 

Someone needs to tell Atari that we're not 12 year old boys anymore.

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No luck for me with loosening the screws.  Heck, even removing them doesn't fix it.

 

Are you all testing with Windows USB Controller tester?  That is where you were see the real simple results.  Press lightly to the right, it registers right.  Press a little harder to the right, it registers down/right.  Same thing with pushing left... however it seems you have to press a little harder (compared to pressing right) to see it happen.

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34 minutes ago, Preppie said:

Someone needs to tell Atari that we're not 12 year old boys anymore.

I dunno, my wrists were pretty strong when I was 12.

 

...

 

I did a lot of piano practice.

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19 minutes ago, chad5200 said:

No luck for me with loosening the screws.  Heck, even removing them doesn't fix it.

 

Are you all testing with Windows USB Controller tester?  That is where you were see the real simple results.  Press lightly to the right, it registers right.  Press a little harder to the right, it registers down/right.  Same thing with pushing left... however it seems you have to press a little harder (compared to pressing right) to see it happen.

Yeah, I tested it in the Windows controller section and the CCS64 emulator. I haven't even taken the 400 Mini back out of the box yet!

 

After loosening the screws I now have to press a lot harder to cause it, whereas before anything but a super light touch to the right would trigger the down command too. I would say it's now usable, but not perfect, you wouldn't use it as your serious competetive controller as you couldn't 100% rely on it. 

Edited by JetmanUK
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CXStick just arrived. Tested with OpenEMU.

 

In comparison to the Hyperkin Trooper 2 which I have been liking so far, the CXStick is muuuch tighter on the stick, and the primary button as a nice click (but might be a bit harder to press, so might lead to fatique we'll see. The placement of the two menu buttons on the back and not the front is not nearly as nice as the Trooper 2 and I'm sure was done for aesthetic rather than ergonomic reasons. Similarly, the shoulder button is too easy to hit accidentally compared to the Trooper 2 shoulder buttons which are pressed by the finger tip and not the middle of the finger. But, boy, does this thing look amazing to go along with retro gear.

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No issues with the diagonals on my pack-in stick.

 

Though if I hit "pause" again without meaning to there may be some profanity.

 

Hope a quick factory fix is incoming for those with issues.

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5 hours ago, Preppie said:

Apparently it's designed this way, light touch is good for L/R/U/D and firmer use is better for diagonals - stupid idea if you ask me.

 

 

 

If I was a representative of Retro Games / Plaion I would say the same. It is not a bug, it is a feature 😁 Anything to make sure that people don't send the items back and make some money 😁

Edited by Fred_M
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36 minutes ago, Fred_M said:

If I was a representative of Retro Games / Plaion I would say the same. It is not a bug, it is a feature 😁 Anything to make sure that people don't send the items back and make some money 😁

Never in the history of 8-way joysticks has there ever been a design that required the user to "use a light touch if you want to move left or right"... until today.  Give me a break!  Atari/Plaion/whoever designed this joystick screwed up.  They are about to get a LOT of returns.

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9 minutes ago, chad5200 said:

Never in the history of 8-way joysticks has there ever been a design that required the user to "use a light touch if you want to move left or right"... until today.  Give me a break!  Atari/Plaion/whoever designed this joystick screwed up.  They are about to get a LOT of returns.

 

I totally agree with you. It is sad that they say that this behaviour of the joystick was intended, my post was ironic 😉

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I have a Hyperkin Trooper 2 USB joystick and I’ve noticed some weirdness with PacMan 8k in my Recallbox when using it (similar issues to how people are describing Lee on the 400 mini). 
 

Was hoping that the CX Stick would be better so I ordered one a few days ago (I didn’t order the 400 mini, just the controller). Getting it on Sunday. 


I’ll update if it’s any better or not. 

Edited by MikeM_
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