Mega Speedy, the ultimate 1050 upgrade. Intrest assesment.

[ndary]

This is what i did... after giving it some thought

 

cut a square window in the bezel lower right cornet, the MegaSpeedy control PCB fit nicely in the Gap between drive Mechanic and the PCB (see image)

maybe cutting two square windows, once from the seven segment and one from the knob would make it nicer..

 

NIr

[Zarxx]

This is what i did... after giving it some thought

 

cut a square window in the bezel lower right cornet, the MegaSpeedy control PCB fit nicely in the Gap between drive Mechanic and the PCB (see image)

maybe cutting two square windows, once from the seven segment and one from the knob would make it nicer..

 

NIr

 

Similar to mine. I also shortened the adjuster, cap and used a marker to carefully black the white display. I experimented with covering the digits but they were too dark.

 

[Bikerbob]

 

Similar to mine. I also shortened the adjuster, cap and used a marker to carefully black the white display. I experimented with covering the digits but they were too dark.

 

mega2_resize.jpgmega3_resize.jpg

Looks fantastic, not sure I will do the black out, but I see you did a fair amount of drilling, what did you use to so cleanly cut the square?

 

James

[Zarxx]

Just measured carefully, drilled the inside edges and then used a sharp craft knife to trim. Best to start smaller as you can always fit and trim as needed.

[ndary]

zarxx, initially i tried to mount the front pcb like you did, but found out that the right knob is mounted in an angle which prevent from the drive to be placed far deep on my desk.

so i widen the window allowing the PCB to be pushed more to the front

[Zarxx]

zarxx, initially i tried to mount the front pcb like you did, but found out that the right knob is mounted in an angle which prevent from the drive to be placed far deep on my desk.

so i widen the window allowing the PCB to be pushed more to the front

 

I had the same problem, so I cut it down. Still able to twiddle it with my finger tips, no access issues.

 

[Bikerbob]

Zarxx do you have any pics of your inside mount? how did you "glue" it in place?

 

James

[Zarxx]

Nothing special inside, just held by the front nut and fitting into the surround. I will say that you have to mount it low at the front as the ribbon cable connector on the board will make contact with the underside of the drive mech. Mine just touches but I didn't need to do any more alterations.

[Defender II]

That's a really nice clean looking install. I'd like to see inside pictures too, please.

 

I had the same problem, so I cut it down. Still able to twiddle it with my finger tips, no access issues.

 

mega4_resize.jpgmega6_resize.jpg

[+Larry]

I'm installing mine today, and I have a question about the included install guide and the web site instructions.

 

The included docs say "insert the gold connector pins in the 28-pin socket on the bottom of the PCB, thin pins into socket."

 

The web site says "you want to insert the short side into the machine socket."

 

These seem contradictory, and the short (fat) side of the pins are really, really tight in that socket.

 

-Larry

 

Edit: Presume it does not make any difference about the 1050 on-board jumpers? (the ones you must check/switch when installing a U.S. Doubler.)

[Level42]

This is great!

Do not give up

I'd buy that in a heartbeat !!!

[BillC]

I'm installing mine today, and I have a question about the included install guide and the web site instructions.

 

The included docs say "insert the gold connector pins in the 28-pin socket on the bottom of the PCB, thin pins into socket."

 

The web site says "you want to insert the short side into the machine socket."

 

These seem contradictory, and the short (fat) side of the pins are really, really tight in that socket.

 

-Larry

 

Edit: Presume it does not make any difference about the 1050 on-board jumpers? (the ones you must check/switch when installing a U.S. Doubler.)

The JP1 to JP4 jumpers only affect the ROM socket on the 1050 PCB. Since the Mega Speedy firmware is on the upgrade PCB these jumper settings have no affect.

[guus.assmann]

The thin pins do fit nicely in the socket on the bottom of the MegaSpeedy.

And the tick parts fits well in the 1050 socket.

However, if the thick pins have been in the 1050 socket, it may not connect to the 6507 processor is that needs to go back.

Either way is ok, as long as you don't break any pins.

 

BR/

Guus

[KLund1]

Anyone figured out how to print a new basel?

there is this thread where they have 3D print files, but no purchase of a finished unit that i can see.

http://www.abbuc.de/community/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=8375&start=60

Any ideas how we can get something here in the USA?

Have such a good product facing downward just is not right.

[Mathy]

Hello KLund1

 

Try contacting Tigerduck. IIRC he's here on AtariAge from time to time. He's had some basels printed.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

[Level42]

Just letting know that I'm currently fiddling with Tigerduck's Megaspeedy front bezel to adapt it to my taste.

 

Since we're creating something new, there is no need to act as if it should stay 100% original IMHO.

 

I googled for an easy and free program to edit STL files and found out about Tinkercad which is a great, easy to use, free online tool to ....tinker....with 3D stuff. Some Youtube videos were really helpful too. Check it out, it's a lot of fun to do actually: www.tinkercad.com

 

Thins I did:

- remove the Power On/Off text. IMHO, after 30+ years of using 1050's I think I about know how the power switch and LED work

 

- put a nice logo/name for the Megaspeedy in that spot. I searched for and downloaded the font which was used for the Atari logo and used a Tinkercad extension which can import fonts in SVG format. I used https://www.fontsquirrel.com/tools/webfont-generatorto convert the TTF font into a SVG format font. I split up MEGA and SPEEDY because I wanted the MEGA part to be.......well.....MEGA and put the Speedy part in smaller font and the italic version to emphasize the speed....

 

- I added the Atari logo. From the day I bought my 600XL and 1010 I was annoyed (angry might be to big a word...) by the fact that Atari had apparently decided that the Atari logo should not be on the XL computer range. Now I have a chance to take some revenge

I downloaded the EPS version of the best (most true to original) Atari logo I could find. Converted this to an SVG file which can be imported by Tinkercad using an online conversion website (www.online-convert.com) I had to remove a box around it and also the ATARI name which I thought would be too much (and probably too small).

 

Instead of putting the letters and logo "on" the surface of the bezel (like the original Power On/Off text) I decided to "cut out" the logo and the letters instead. First of all this is a technique that is very nice to use with 3D printing, it looks smooth and a bit more special and........it saves some grams of filament I do hope the Atari logo will work out OK since there is little space between the "beams".

 

The only thing I'm still thinking about is adding the letters S, E and D next to the density LEDs as I can never remember what those mean

 

Oh...and another nice little idea I had was "cutting out" the Atari logo completely, putting a milky plastic behind it and lit it up with a red LED But again, the small distance between the "beams" of the logo might be a problem during the printing process here...I'll ask some 3D printing companies about this.....

 

I'll put the finished STL files up for download ASAP.

Edited August 7, 2017 by Level42

[Level42]

Compared to my earlier design I made the following changes;

First I made the Atari logo go "through and through" as to put a milky plastic filter behind it and a (red) LED that simply always lights up after power on. The logo was still on the same location at that time. Of course this would require installing an extra LED and resistor.

Then I filled up the original holes for the density LEDs and put some openings in the shape of the S, M and D letters there. I decided to "fix" the middle part of the D with an extra support that is thin and is sitting receded so it will not block the light of the LED too much yet still let the inner par of the D be supported. Hope this works out when printing ! (Worst case I open up the complete hole of the D...no big problem).

Next I thought: Why not change the boring original Power LED hole to letters too ? So I filled in the hole for the LED again and put the letters ON in there. Next I realized the O would also need a support and....then I figured....why not move the Atari logo there ? So I removed the ON letters again and moved the Atari logo there, removed the "support bulb" on the inside of the bezel and simply made the Logo a bit bigger and going through the entire front.

Now, do note that this will require a bit of modification to the original LED. It is is a plastic support. Not sure yet if this can stay or if it maybe needs to remove and shorten the LED legs. Also, of course, a milky white piece of plastic will have to be put behind the logo holes. Maybe it will turn out that the original LED will need to be replaced with a higher brightness LED. I think I will stil to red, but of course any LED color would work (may need to change resistor value though).

But that's all for later.

Because of the logo being moved to the left side I figured it got a bit "busy" there so I moved the Mega Speedy logo to the right, after all, this is also where the controls are for it.

I just sent this design to the printer. They were already running another test print in black. They said it was no problem as they need nice demo pieces in their shop so apparently they like the design

[Mathy]

Hello Level42

 

Isn't it possible to print in two colors? If that's possible, you can fill some of the holes with "milky white". That way you don't need to cut milky white plastic into shape and glue it to the bezel. Which saves time and reduces depth. Plus it would take care of your "O" and "D" problems.

 

BTW if after 30 years you know how the power LED and the power switch work, it shouldn't be to hard to know how what the SD, ED/MD and DD LEDs are for. :-)

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

[Level42]

Hey hey Mathy.....the Megaspeedy is only 2 years old and....in all honesty I don't use 1050's on a daily basis anymore Also, I'm almost 50 now and it isn't so easy to learn stuff as it was when I was 15 (although I did learn to adapt 3D models in just a few days ).

 

I have no idea about printing in two colors but it will be easy enough to have some standard milky white plastic put in

 

Also: the "walls" in 3D printed stuff can't be too thin, not as thin as sheet plastic AFAIK. And I have some doubt about how even the light would be spread with printed semi-transparant plastic. And there's the factor of cost....putting in a 2nd filament for just that tiny spot will probably raise costs a lot.

[Level42]

P.S.

 

CRAP !

 

I was planning on putting an E there for Enhanced Density.....it will probably also look better as I had to "shrink" the M horizontally to make it line up with the S and D......O lordy.......I'll have to correct this..... thanks !

 

 

O and P.S.2

 

Aren't those "holed" letters a lot more fun than the simple holes ?

Edited August 8, 2017 by Level42

[Level42]

Here we go. FINAL.

 

M removed, E put in. That's it !

 

I hope the density LEDs are not protecting too much...that might be a problem, but can be fixed too if needed....

 

I will be visiting the printing company tomorrow so I can see the 2 test-prints they made....really wonder how they turned out

 

(And I hope they are not going to mention a price like that of the 1050 in 1984......

Edited August 8, 2017 by Level42

[tep392]

Are you going to post the file for this bezel? I have access to 3D printers at work and would like to try making one.

[Level42]

Yes for sure but I think I want to see the final printed product first before erratic or problematic files will start floating around the internet. As soon as I've seen the final product and am happy with it without having to modify the files I will publish them.

 

Naturally all my tinkering is based on Tigerduck's work, which in turn is based on an existing file of the production bezel of the 1050 done by a guy named C64 (yes)....

 

Tigerduck made the extended lower area and also corrected/optimized a number of things and his final files are here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6qcgzto84k0z ... wzxwa?dl=0

 

But if you want the ones I created...., I guess they'll be out in a few days and I'll post them here.

Edited August 8, 2017 by Level42

[tep392]

Cool. I haven't checked out our lab yet but I understand they have some very high end equipment. The one shown in this article will do multi color I believe. I'm going to stop by and ask what options I have.

 

http://articles.sae.org/14697/

[Mathy]

Hello Level42

 

SED was the Socialistische Einheitspartei Deutschlands, which governed the German Democratic Republic (Eastern-Germany) from 1949 to 1990.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy