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The Official Turbografx 16 Thread!


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More than one bit :

 

15.jpg

 

It require more than cutting the connector I think? And if cutting the connector is enough, why not getting a PC-Engine AV booster? Aren't those worth like 30$?

Come to think of it, the squarish extension on the back of a US Turbografx (with cover removed) does have a similar shape to the PC Engine, although I don't know what other differences in shape the butt ends of the two systems have besides the US system having a trapezoid and the Japanese system having rounded ends. A pure 23x3 rectangular plug could potentially fit both regions, so grinding away the edges of an existing connector would have a similar effect. Could someone find or post a photo comparison of the butt end of a Turbografx and a Coregrafx? I'd like to know how closely they match.

 

= = = = = = = =

 

I also have a PC Henshin adapter on the way now, so at the moment I have no need of a CoreGrafx system, as sexy as those things are. My Street Fighter II Champion Edition also arrived today and I played it for a bit on my Retro Freak with a PS3 controller. Used one star setting because I suck at fighting games, LOL, but managed to beat the game anyway with like three continues. I used Chun Li for most of the game. I'm also sure if I take the time to learn how to do combos, I'll get better at it. I'm primarily a "button masher" when it comes to fighters. I still won't be able to play it on my Turbografx until my PC Henshin adapter arrives, and then I'll still need to wire a cable for my Cthulhu MAME controller. Been working on it since fall and I only have the USB part working so far. I'm such a Procrastinator, which is why I'll never do joystick commissions... :roll:

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Come to think of it, the squarish extension on the back of a US Turbografx (with cover removed) does have a similar shape to the PC Engine, although I don't know what other differences in shape the butt ends of the two systems have besides the US system having a trapezoid and the Japanese system having rounded ends. A pure 23x3 rectangular plug could potentially fit both regions, so grinding away the edges of an existing connector would have a similar effect. Could someone find or post a photo comparison of the butt end of a Turbografx and a Coregrafx? I'd like to know how closely they match.

 

= = = = = = = =

 

I also have a PC Henshin adapter on the way now, so at the moment I have no need of a CoreGrafx system, as sexy as those things are. My Street Fighter II Champion Edition also arrived today and I played it for a bit on my Retro Freak with a PS3 controller. Used one star setting because I suck at fighting games, LOL, but managed to beat the game anyway with like three continues. I used Chun Li for most of the game. I'm also sure if I take the time to learn how to do combos, I'll get better at it. I'm primarily a "button masher" when it comes to fighters. I still won't be able to play it on my Turbografx until my PC Henshin adapter arrives, and then I'll still need to wire a cable for my Cthulhu MAME controller. Been working on it since fall and I only have the USB part working so far. I'm such a Procrastinator, which is why I'll never do joystick commissions... :roll:

 

Playing SFII' using my kisado converter results in a sort of whining-static-feedback sound the entire time. Bitd, I didn't know if it was the game or converter until I got my first PC Engine setup.

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Playing SFII' using my kisado converter results in a sort of whining-static-feedback sound the entire time. Bitd, I didn't know if it was the game or converter until I got my first PC Engine setup.

Is it the on-card bank switching causing bus noise? Or is it the fact the traces on the adapter are slightly longer than the card bus? How bad is the "noise" generated by the Hucard? Perception is fairly objective, but is the noise level obnoxious annoying or just barely noticeable?

 

One of the primary reasons why I did not do the internal region mod on my Turbografx was it or similar region mods could break the compatibility with the Everdrive. The region mod uses two 74xx157 chips (like the kind in the Genesis and Turbografx controllers) which each toggle a 4-bit AB input. An SPST switch with pullup or pulldown resistor effectively reverses the order of the 8 data lines which get swapped between Hucard and Turbochip cards. For PCe systems, it also toggles the region select bit enabling US Turbochip games (which have software regional lockout the Japanese games lack) to run on PC Engine hardware.

 

The internal region mod effectively breaks compatibility with The turbo Everdrive, presumably because the Everdrive uses bidirectional communication or some other voodoo on the card bus. The 74xx157 cannot take a signal from the chips output and feed it to the input, so the region-free mod effectively breaks compatibility. The work around if you want to use it with Everdrive is to use a rare DPOT (Double Pole Octo [8] Throw) mechanical switch (or quadruple ganged DPDTs) to swap the 8 pins, which will pass bidirectional signals. It's also a bit messy, requiring 16 wires (8 input and 8 output) between the cart bus and the board.

 

The PC Henshin adapter is a brand new no mod converter that basically works like the old school converters, rewiring the cart bus externally. There are two versions, one of which has a logic chip that strips region protection from US games to work on a Japanese console, and the other which does not have the logic chip and will only allow Japanese games to run on US hardware. I got the less expensive version without the chip. Since my Everdrive is set to US region, I don't need to use the converter with it.

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Is it the on-card bank switching causing bus noise? Or is it the fact the traces on the adapter are slightly longer than the card bus? How bad is the "noise" generated by the Hucard? Perception is fairly objective, but is the noise level obnoxious annoying or just barely noticeable?

 

One of the primary reasons why I did not do the internal region mod on my Turbografx was it or similar region mods could break the compatibility with the Everdrive. The region mod uses two 74xx157 chips (like the kind in the Genesis and Turbografx controllers) which each toggle a 4-bit AB input. An SPST switch with pullup or pulldown resistor effectively reverses the order of the 8 data lines which get swapped between Hucard and Turbochip cards. For PCe systems, it also toggles the region select bit enabling US Turbochip games (which have software regional lockout the Japanese games lack) to run on PC Engine hardware.

 

The internal region mod effectively breaks compatibility with The turbo Everdrive, presumably because the Everdrive uses bidirectional communication or some other voodoo on the card bus. The 74xx157 cannot take a signal from the chips output and feed it to the input, so the region-free mod effectively breaks compatibility. The work around if you want to use it with Everdrive is to use a rare DPOT (Double Pole Octo [8] Throw) mechanical switch (or quadruple ganged DPDTs) to swap the 8 pins, which will pass bidirectional signals. It's also a bit messy, requiring 16 wires (8 input and 8 output) between the cart bus and the board.

 

The PC Henshin adapter is a brand new no mod converter that basically works like the old school converters, rewiring the cart bus externally. There are two versions, one of which has a logic chip that strips region protection from US games to work on a Japanese console, and the other which does not have the logic chip and will only allow Japanese games to run on US hardware. I got the less expensive version without the chip. Since my Everdrive is set to US region, I don't need to use the converter with it.

It was only ever SFII' that made those sounds. It doesn't overpower the normal game sounds, but you hear it all the time, even when there is no game sound. To this day, whenever I see the initial startup screen, I hear the sound in my head.

 

From what I've heard, it's pretty much just the v2 Turbo Everdrive which has compatibilty issues with modified consoles. I have a v1 and v2 and the v1 works on at least four of my modified Turbo/PC Engine systems and the v2 works on at least one of them.

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Ah yes, it's Etsy that made the AV composite output. I see it's still out of stock. That one seemed like the most solid one out there; should have moved on it quicker when it was on Amazon. Not that I'm too sad about playing my TG16 using coaxial, but I want to hook it up to my switcher...so I'll need the cables.

 

I'll keep an eye out both on the web and this thread to see if Etsy gets any more built.

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Ah yes, it's Etsy that made the AV composite output. I see it's still out of stock. That one seemed like the most solid one out there; should have moved on it quicker when it was on Amazon. Not that I'm too sad about playing my TG16 using coaxial, but I want to hook it up to my switcher...so I'll need the cables.

 

I'll keep an eye out both on the web and this thread to see if Etsy gets any more built.

The Etsy 3d printed adapter is a work of art; I'm glad I purchased mine when I did. :)

 

There's another guy selling adapters on eBay but they look really cheap. Basically 23x3 pin headers with an AV cord out the back. He offers a choice of colors at no extra cost, which appears to be simply different colors of the electrical tape he wraps them with. :razz:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TurboGrafx-Turbobooster-PC-Engine-AV-booster-replacement-CompStereoGOLD-RCACable-/171710278123

 

Here's a possibly better built item for $50. Seller has two in stock. Still nowhere near as nice as the Etsy adapter, but he doesn't have pics from many angles so I can't compare them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TurboGrafx-16-Composite-RCA-Video-Output-Cable-Turbo-Booster-Alternative-Grafx/262270819265

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More than one bit :

 

15.jpg

 

It require more than cutting the connector I think? And if cutting the connector is enough, why not getting a PC-Engine AV booster? Aren't those worth like 30$?

No, you are wrong. Someone could just get an PC Engine AV Booster if they wanted. Since you have never seen a turbografx before im not sure why you were trying to argue with me about it not fitting. I cut off some of the extra plastic on the connector on one with some dykes, since you guys seem to be having trouble picturing it.

 

fYblmUgl.jpg

EXW3Q7rl.jpg

Edited by mickcris
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The Etsy 3d printed adapter is a work of art; I'm glad I purchased mine when I did. :)

 

There's another guy selling adapters on eBay but they look really cheap. Basically 23x3 pin headers with an AV cord out the back. He offers a choice of colors at no extra cost, which appears to be simply different colors of the electrical tape he wraps them with. :razz:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TurboGrafx-Turbobooster-PC-Engine-AV-booster-replacement-CompStereoGOLD-RCACable-/171710278123

 

Here's a possibly better built item for $50. Seller has two in stock. Still nowhere near as nice as the Etsy adapter, but he doesn't have pics from many angles so I can't compare them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TurboGrafx-16-Composite-RCA-Video-Output-Cable-Turbo-Booster-Alternative-Grafx/262270819265

I think that it's a waste to spend as much on a homemade AV cable for a TG-16 as it is to buy a CoreGrafx, which plays 99% of the combined Turbo/PCE library and is physically compatible with the cheaper PCE CD-ROM. Especially if you plan on playing SCD or ACD games.

 

 

 

More than one bit :

 

15.jpg

 

It require more than cutting the connector I think? And if cutting the connector is enough, why not getting a PC-Engine AV booster? Aren't those worth like 30$?

The AV Booster is just a glorified composite AV cable. The Tennokoe II provides back-up saving (like the TurboBooster Plus) and like I said, mickcris' provide RGB and come with the scart cable. For $70, it's a much better deal than those homemade composite AV cables for $30 - $50.

Edited by Black_Tiger
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I know what the Tennokoe II is :D

I was just asking the feasibility of installing one on a TG-16 since the back of the TG-16 is, to me, flat, and the Tennokoe II isn't flat at all as it wrap around the PC-Engine back.

 

I don't have the use of a Tennokoe II either since I got an IFU-30 unit ;)

But as the TG 16 is rather rare, I do'nt know much about the system's.

For example it's here on this topic that i learned that the back connector is trapezoidal ;)

Edited by CatPix
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I cut off some of the extra plastic on the connector on one with some dykes,

What is a "dyke?" I've only heard this expression used as a slur against women living alternative lifestyles, or "dike" with regards to a levee or other man made land mass that holds back flood water. Poor word choice? :P

 

As for your photos, the adapter (properly modded) looks very nice on the butt of a turbografx. I assume all that is needed is to file down the edges of the connector, correct? Also is it true the memory retention only lasts two weeks? Is there some way to mod the device (rechargeable NMHi batteries with a "trickle charge" circuit, etc) to extend the memory retention lifespan? What if I leave the console adapter plugged in but powered off? That would be an issue for me as I tend to game on a variety of old consoles and they often sit unused for periods. I would like to play through Neutopia but the lengthy passwords are annoying. My understanding is Neutopia I and II are among the few English Hucard/Turbochip games that use it for more than just high score saving, correct? JRPG Hucards and all CDROM games are out of the question for me at this time.

 

I know what the Tennokoe II is :D

I was just asking the feasibility of installing one on a TG-16 since the back of the TG-16 is, to me, flat, and the Tennokoe II isn't flat at all as it wrap around the PC-Engine back.

 

I don't have the use of a Tennokoe II either since I got an IFU-30 unit ;)

But as the TG 16 is rather rare, I do'nt know much about the system's.

For example it's here on this topic that i learned that the back connector is trapezoidal ;)

Yes, the connector is a trapezoid. It remonds me of those old PC connectors back in the day, but larger.
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What is a "dyke?" I've only heard this expression used as a slur against women living alternative lifestyles, or "dike" with regards to a levee or other man made land mass that holds back flood water. Poor word choice? :P

 

As for your photos, the adapter (properly modded) looks very nice on the butt of a turbografx. I assume all that is needed is to file down the edges of the connector, correct? Also is it true the memory retention only lasts two weeks? Is there some way to mod the device (rechargeable NMHi batteries with a "trickle charge" circuit, etc) to extend the memory retention lifespan? What if I leave the console adapter plugged in but powered off? That would be an issue for me as I tend to game on a variety of old consoles and they often sit unused for periods. I would like to play through Neutopia but the lengthy passwords are annoying.

 

I spelled it wrong i guess. its actually dikes. but its a common nickname for diagonal cutters.

 

It uses 2 AA batteries

Edited by mickcris
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I spelled it wrong i guess. its actually dikes. but its a common nickname for diagonal cutters.

 

It uses 2 AA batteries

No harm, no foul. :)

 

So if it uses 2x AA batteries, why the rumors of only two week data retention on the Turbobooster? I thought the two week data retention was from the use of super cap for power. Is there some warning when battery life is low?

 

Also should be fairly easy to mod the device to use rechargeable NMHi batteries by fabricating a trickle charge circuit out of a resistor and some series-connected diodes or an LED (diode would need a total voltage drop of about 2.2V, providing 2.8V total to sufficiently charge the battery bank without overcharging them) between the [+] terminal of the battery bay and the +5V VCC of the Turbografx / PC Engine. That way you'd never need to replace the batteries and they would never drain completely as long as you played the Turbografx about once every six months to a year or so.

 

15.jpg

fYblmUgl.jpg

EXW3Q7rl.jpg

Nice use of contrasting colors here. A dark gray Tennokoe II unit on a white PC Engine and a white Tennokoe II unit on a Turbografx. :D
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No white Tennokoe, it is probably the lightning that makes that grey Tennokoe2 looks white. Same thing with black and blue vs gold and white dress last year.

 

And dike/dyke is pretty old term, last time I heard it used it was for underground vertical lava pipe (usually in cracks or gaps) that comes to an end and solidify. It's different from volcano that pumps lava above ground.

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So...Die Hard for PC Engine is not good. I had to play it though (it's DIE HARD!), I'm not unhappy as I did not pay too much.

 

Got my $30 Avenue 6 pretty dang fast from Japan, I was surprised. After a little (lot) of cleaning (Cheetoh dust or skin particles mixed with cigarette tar? Both? I'm not sure) it's in pretty good shape, a few scratches on the front, but now clean as a whistle. I'm surprised honestly....I have read many people prefer, for two button games, the stock pad over this. I think I like the Avenue 6 better, though I've only used it about an hour. I like that the face of the controller is sloped, I like that it's bigger overall. Not sure why the turbos are only one position though? Does that have something to do with the A/B mode and the way it works?

 

So I got my 6 button. I also have my Super Arcade Card games. Fatal Fury, World Heroes 2, Art of Fighting. NOW I JUST NEED MY DAMN ARCADE CARD TO SHOW UP!!! :mad: :mad: :mad:

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No harm, no foul. :)

 

So if it uses 2x AA batteries, why the rumors of only two week data retention on the Turbobooster? I thought the two week data retention was from the use of super cap for power. Is there some warning when battery life is low?

 

Also should be fairly easy to mod the device to use rechargeable NMHi batteries by fabricating a trickle charge circuit out of a resistor and some series-connected diodes or an LED (diode would need a total voltage drop of about 2.2V, providing 2.8V total to sufficiently charge the battery bank without overcharging them) between the [+] terminal of the battery bay and the +5V VCC of the Turbografx / PC Engine. That way you'd never need to replace the batteries and they would never drain completely as long as you played the Turbografx about once every six months to a year or so.

 

Nice use of contrasting colors here. A dark gray Tennokoe II unit on a white PC Engine and a white Tennokoe II unit on a Turbografx. :D

 

Because its not a Turbo Booster. The Turbo Booster uses a super cap while tennokoe 2 uses 2 AA batteries. The LED comes on when the batteries are low, but also when system is turned on.

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No, you are wrong. Someone could just get an PC Engine AV Booster if they wanted. Since you have never seen a turbografx before im not sure why you were trying to argue with me about it not fitting. I cut off some of the extra plastic on the connector on one with some dykes, since you guys seem to be having trouble picturing it.

 

fYblmUgl.jpg

EXW3Q7rl.jpg

 

Ah nice to see a picture from the top.

As I said, I never seen one IRL.

And when you look for pictures, the first one that come out looks like this :

turbografx16-rev-tan.jpg

Which is apparently a very large A/V out add-on? Or just a back cover?

I also looked on the Turbografx box because I might get one for the fun :

box.jpg

It also feature that end that make it look flat.

 

Beside, I was ASKING out how to fit it, not arguing about, since I was looking for answers.

Edited by CatPix
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So there I learn things ^^ Starnge that people discarded them .I guess same reason why people threw boxes away.

I guess it shows also a lack of interest in general for the TG-16.

In mere seconds, you can find dozens of websites offering you a view on all PC-Engine models and variants, with pictures from every side. There is nothing of that style for the TG-16.

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So there I learn things ^^ Starnge that people discarded them .I guess same reason why people threw boxes away.

I guess it shows also a lack of interest in general for the TG-16.

In mere seconds, you can find dozens of websites offering you a view on all PC-Engine models and variants, with pictures from every side. There is nothing of that style for the TG-16.

 

I guess just the way you phrased your questions seemed more like arguing since both Black Tiger and me (who both have lots of knowledge about this subject) told you it would fit, and you just kept saying you didn't think it would. Its probably just a language thing though since you are from France.

 

If you want to see pictures, a good place is ebay. there are lots on there and most of them are missing the back cover. lots of people just toss them when they connect something to the back. most pc engines are missing their covers for the expansion slot also.

Edited by mickcris
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It's and interesting idea indeed to look on eBay.

I do'nt do that alot because most sellers here usually throw two/three crappy pictures - I noticed for cars, however,t hat US seelers are more serious about taking pics.

 

And yeah, it's probably just a language/phrasing issue we had here.

 

I did got a PC-engine with the back cover.. but it's much easier for it to go missing... plus, expansions in Japan were more common so it's less surprising.

It's still a nice thing to get one.

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