The Official Turbografx 16 Thread!

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Go here... and order up one of these:

 

http://console5.com/store/turbo-duo-power-supply-plug-adapter-cable.html

 

That will allow you to use a more common genesis 1 power supply or SMS power supply on a DUO. I actually still use the original JPN power supply that came with my JPN DUO and without a step down transformer. Been using it for nearly 10 years like this without issue. Now the JPN PC-Engines can use a Genesis 1 or SMS power supply straight without any adapters...etc. Also worth noting that I have used for hours on end...a Genesis 1 and or SMS power supply with my US TG-16 without issues as well so if they are supposed to be center tip negative, then I don't understand because they appear to work regardless of the polarity?

[CatPix]

You don't need a step-down transformer for JP appliances.

The difference between 100 and 120V might sound steep, but in reality, for easing export, even at the time, japanese power supplies were made for 110V. The step up form 110 to 120V is well withing the safe range of power supplies.

In Europe, the power grid was upped from 220V to 230V 10 years ago. No massive power supply failure was reported.

 

The way unregulated power supply works it that they are made for a step down ratio. So at 100V, you should have 9V.

Feeding it 120V mean you'll get something like 9,5V.

As I mentionned, console power regulators car take up to 15V so that's all well withing the tolerance range.

 

It is more important to check if your power supply is 50 or 60 htz. Japan is divided in two grids, that both use 100V, but one is a 60 htz grid, and one is a 50 htz grid.

Most Japanese power supply support both, but you never know if you buy one that was made for 50 htz only. (tho, I doubt that as late as the PC-Engine they would make them this way).

[+Black_Tiger]

That power supply I liked to and the adapter is correct. The duo is center positive. No one ever said to use an AC adapter. You keep posting about stuff that you have no clue what you are talking about.

 

I don't care what you do to your system concerning saves. I'm just saying that the tennokoe 2 saves would last a long time with 2 Eneloop rechargeables. You can also put a larger super cap in to make saves last longer than 2 weeks. Although I've never heard the 2 week thing or tested to see how long the stock super cap holds data.

My Turbo-CD and Duo saves have lasted for years at a time on some units that I stopped playing for one reason or another.

[mickcris]

Go here... and order up one of these:

 

http://console5.com/store/turbo-duo-power-supply-plug-adapter-cable.html

 

That will allow you to use a more common genesis 1 power supply or SMS power supply on a DUO. I actually still use the original JPN power supply that came with my JPN DUO and without a step down transformer. Been using it for nearly 10 years like this without issue. Now the JPN PC-Engines can use a Genesis 1 or SMS power supply straight without any adapters...etc. Also worth noting that I have used for hours on end...a Genesis 1 and or SMS power supply with my US TG-16 without issues as well so if they are supposed to be center tip negative, then I don't understand because they appear to work regardless of the polarity?

The turbografx16, white pc engine, and core grafx models are all center negative and will work with a genesis 1 power supply. The Turbo Duo/PC engine duo use a center positive supply.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

If you look at the link from Console5's website, these adapter cables are made to be used with the DUO and to specifically be able to use a Genesis 1 power supply with the DUO. As I said, I've actually ran my JPN DUO using one of these cables and a Genesis ps without issue. I've also used a Genesis 1 ps on both my TG-16 and my Gore grafx 2 for literally 10+ hour stretches at a time without issues.

[mickcris]

If you look at the link from Console5's website, these adapter cables are made to be used with the DUO and to specifically be able to use a Genesis 1 power supply with the DUO. As I said, I've actually ran my JPN DUO using one of these cables and a Genesis ps without issue. I've also used a Genesis 1 ps on both my TG-16 and my Gore grafx 2 for literally 10+ hour stretches at a time without issues.

 

They wired it up so it switches the polarity as well as the tip size.

 

I was not saying that the adapter Console5 makes doesn't work as I know it does. I was just answering you polarity question.

Edited February 7, 2016 by mickcris

[Andromeda Stardust]

You don't need a step-down transformer for JP appliances.

The difference between 100 and 120V might sound steep, but in reality, for easing export, even at the time, japanese power supplies were made for 110V. The step up form 110 to 120V is well withing the safe range of power supplies.

In Europe, the power grid was upped from 220V to 230V 10 years ago. No massive power supply failure was reported.

 

The way unregulated power supply works it that they are made for a step down ratio. So at 100V, you should have 9V.

Feeding it 120V mean you'll get something like 9,5V.

As I mentionned, console power regulators car take up to 15V so that's all well withing the tolerance range.

 

It is more important to check if your power supply is 50 or 60 htz. Japan is divided in two grids, that both use 100V, but one is a 60 htz grid, and one is a 50 htz grid.

Most Japanese power supply support both, but you never know if you buy one that was made for 50 htz only. (tho, I doubt that as late as the PC-Engine they would make them this way).

Japan and US power bricks are interchangeable. The only problem you would possibly encounter is if you have a US device requiring a three prong and/or polarized outlet since most receptacles in Japan are non-polarized and don't have the safety ground pin.

 

50Hz vs 60Hz doesn't matter much for DC applications. Induction motors will run 20% slower and power distribution transformers would need to be derated 20%, but supply frequency really does not affect devices that use DC internally. You will get slightly more current ripple on a 50Hz line and possibly a small amount of additional noise, but not enough to disrupt operation of the device.

 

Neither does it matter much with a 100v Japanese line supply vs 120v US supply. The difference either way is 20%, still within component tolerances. Most 9V console adapters put out 10V on US outlets anyway, so I suspect the internals are the same.

 

But place a 100-120v unregulated adapter on a Euro 240v supply line and your device will likely go up in smoke.

[Tan]

Does anyone have any information on controller variations? Specifically, the difference between TurboPads marked NEC Technologies Inc. HES-PAD-01 and those with just the NEC Home Electronics (U.S.A.), Inc. on the back?

 

I had initially suspected that as a Canadian, I had a mix of hardware from two countries. Since the Canadian power supplies (molded/printed info with CSA certification) are different than the American ones (black/silver label) I thought I'd try that approach first.

 

Thanks!

Edited February 12, 2016 by Tan

[Tan]

 

Ah nice to see a picture from the top.

As I said, I never seen one IRL.

And when you look for pictures, the first one that come out looks like this :

Which is apparently a very large A/V out add-on? Or just a back cover?

 

 

Had I known the back cover was uncommon on loose systems, I would have taken a better picture when I wrote that article.

[CatPix]

Japan and US power bricks are interchangeable. The only problem you would possibly encounter is if you have a US device requiring a three prong and/or polarized outlet since most receptacles in Japan are non-polarized and don't have the safety ground pin.

 

50Hz vs 60Hz doesn't matter much for DC applications. Induction motors will run 20% slower and power distribution transformers would need to be derated 20%, but supply frequency really does not affect devices that use DC internally. You will get slightly more current ripple on a 50Hz line and possibly a small amount of additional noise, but not enough to disrupt operation of the device.

 

Neither does it matter much with a 100v Japanese line supply vs 120v US supply. The difference either way is 20%, still within component tolerances. Most 9V console adapters put out 10V on US outlets anyway, so I suspect the internals are the same.

 

But place a 100-120v unregulated adapter on a Euro 240v supply line and your device will likely go up in smoke.

 

I always heard so different thing about this 50/60htz issues. some people says it's fine, some say that it can damage the transformer (especially in the case of a 50htz PSU on a 60 htz grid, as the frequency is higher, it will make it heat more.)

So I dunno.

I did made my Bally Astrocade operate on a 50 htz grid so it seems okay.

Anyway, I save the hassle of caring about that by replacing my Japanese PSUs with an Euro one, so I don't have to carry an heavy brick of 220=110V converter around.

Edited February 12, 2016 by CatPix

[Andromeda Stardust]

 

I always heard so different thing about this 50/60htz issues. some people says it's fine, some say that it can damage the transformer (especially in the case of a 50htz PSU on a 60 htz grid, as the frequency is higher, it will make it heat more.)

So I dunno.

I did made my Bally Astrocade operate on a 50 htz grid so it seems okay.

Anyway, I save the hassle of caring about that by replacing my Japanese PSUs with an Euro one, so I don't have to carry an heavy brick of 220=110V converter around.

Higher frequency will actually make the transformer heat less. The lower the frequency of the line voltage, the larger the transformer must be to handle a given load. The reason behind this is due to saturation of the ferrous steel in the transformer. Let me try to explain it in layman's terms. Aa an AC sinusoudal waveform oscillates back and forth, it generates a continuously changing magnetic field. The transformer has something known as reluctance, or resistance to changes in magnetic field. As the AC signal rises and falls, it builds up field strength in the iron core. This magnetic field induces a current in the secondary winding. But what if we pass a lower frequency signal? The primary winding of the transformer acts as a large inductor when the secondary coil is not conducting. The lower the frequency, the lower the impedance of the winding, hence the more leakage current it passes. This current creates waste heat in the windings. So under idle conditions, the transformer will pass more current and thus generate more waste heat when it is not being used, the lower the frequency. Now let's look at the transformer under a heavy load. In load conditions, the transformer begins to become saturated as the current through the windings is increased. When saturation is reached, the core can no longer efficiently induce a current in the secondary, resulting in large amounts of waste heat. The longer the voltage source is present without changing direction, the more saturated the transformer winding becomes. A DC voltage would quickly saturate the winding and current flow would only be restricted by the resistance of the copper. With proper AC source, the continously changing voltage and current through the windings prevents saturation from being reached. So a distribution transformer rated for say 30kW when operated on 60Hz line frequency, would have to be derated to 25kW when operated on a 50Hz grid, because the slower rate of change will result in quicker saturation of the magnetic flux withing the iron so it cannot induce secondary current as efficiently. The voltage output of the transformer droops, with the losses being dumped as waste heat within the iron and the copper windings of the transformer. In extreme cases, xcessive heat within the transformer will further reduce it's capacity to induce current in the secondary, potentially leading to thermal runaway and destruction of the transformer. It is not uncommon during hot summers in urban areas, for the distribution system to be taxed beyond it's limit, creating the resultant boom when one of the transformers explodes, leaving parts of the grid without power.

 

But low voltage applications such as power bricks, as long as the brick is running below it's rated capacity, you shouldn't have to worry much about 50Hz/60Hz power sources. Making sure the input frequency is correct is far more important. Plug a 100-120V power brick into a 220-240V Euro mains, and your device will likley go up in smoke. Use a step down transformer, and you're fine.

[+Charlie Cat]

hi guys,

 

Here's a great video from fellow Atariage member, NeoTurboManic on the Y's I & II game. Such a great game for the TG-CD that will keep you busy for awhile. Thanks Neo for uploading this for us to watch.

 

 

Anthony...

[game_escape]

I am wondering if anyone has some buying advice on the Turbo Duo. I am not so much interested tech specs or versions, but rather where I can find one at a reasonable price. By reasonable, I mean reasonable in 2016, which equates (in my mind) to $299-$350 for a functional, reasonably clean, and recapped unit (Duo or Duo-R). The sky-high ebay prices and notoriously bad reliability have led me to think that it is horrible idea to buy one, but I would be willing to pay the stated amount if I had some guarantees on the reliability of the source. Paying $600+ to a seller in Hong Kong for a model that is "tested, works!" is just not something I would do. I am about to dispense with the idea, but I thought I'd search around for advice first.

[CatPix]

For that price range, you can find a Duo in Japan. Tho, a recapped one? unlikely. But I'm sure you'll find people ready to do the recapping for you for a little fee.

The DuoR usually go for more, so you mgiht get restricted in your reeaserch to a Duo.

[Andromeda Stardust]

My PC Henshin adapter for playing PC Engine games on the Turbografx has arrived!

http://www.db-elec.com/home/products/pc-engine-to-turbografx16-converter

 

Anybody recommend some cool Japan exclusive (Hucard only) games that don't have a language barrier? I'm also open to alternatives to US releases that aren't batshit insane expensive. SHMUPs and Platformers are my primary interest but I also enjoy puzzle games and a few other genres. No JRPGs (I can't read the text) and preferably not "Ninja Gaidan" level of difficulty. I also have a fully loaded Everdrive so I can try stuff out before I buy them...

 

As far as shooters go, it will be hard to top Blazing Lazers/Gunhed...

[+GoldenWheels]

Boy lots of PC-E shooter options, very few are out and out duds.

 

You can play the soldier series affordably, first off. Star Soldier, Soldier Blade, Final Soldier. Dragon Saber (sequel to Dragon Spirit) is pretty good, and I am also a fan of Avenger. Mr. Heli is kind of a neat shooter/platformer hybrid game almost, and Metal Stoker is a fun tank shooter game.

 

Hell so far as shooters it's probably easier to tell you what to AVOID: Power Gate and Hawk F-123 for sure. Ugh.

 

I like the original Bikkuriman ftoo for some platforming/light questing.

[7800fan]

If you're patient you can get a cheap Duo. A black Japanese Duo is usually the cheapest but it does need to be recapped which can cost about $50 for labor if you aren't able to do it yourself.

 

I got lucky with a Duo-R that I got cheap. It was cheap because seller reported video problem. I took the chance for $150 and checked around. It only had problem when I play SCD games. Hucard games and CD-ROM^2 games played fine, which pointed to likely issue with extra 64k RAM that are only used by SCD. Some probing, 2 inch kynar wire, and lots of time it works 100%

[NE146]

I always passed on Turbo Ys because when it came out, I had already finished Ys on the SMS and had no desire to play through it again. 'Course now it's been decades so heck, i should check it out.

 

Aside from the obvious graphics/sound, Is there any major difference (layout, mazes, etc.) between the two games? Ys always confuses me with all the versions.. I checked it out on Steam for example and it seemed like a completely different game with dialogue, map & locations.

[CatPix]

I am wondering if anyone has some buying advice on the Turbo Duo. I am not so much interested tech specs or versions, but rather where I can find one at a reasonable price. By reasonable, I mean reasonable in 2016, which equates (in my mind) to $299-$350 for a functional, reasonably clean, and recapped unit (Duo or Duo-R). The sky-high ebay prices and notoriously bad reliability have led me to think that it is horrible idea to buy one, but I would be willing to pay the stated amount if I had some guarantees on the reliability of the source. Paying $600+ to a seller in Hong Kong for a model that is "tested, works!" is just not something I would do. I am about to dispense with the idea, but I thought I'd search around for advice first.

Thinking back about it, if money and reliability is a concern, you could also look out for a IFU-30 combo.

 

First advantage : it's the cheapest of all solutions for play PC-Engine CD-ROM games (except maybe if you wanna play Arcade games, as the Arcade Card Pro is much more expensive than the Arcade Card Duo). Depending on various parameters (and not counting shipping) the average price of a white PC-Engine is around 30$/40$, an IFU-30 is about 30$, and a CD-ROM2 unit sells between 50$ and 120$ (50$ being for a non working unit. It's a gamble, but most of the time, you'll have to add a 8$ gear to replace.) And add a Super System Card for 10$. (Price are Japanese ones. It's unlikely that you'll find those parts for so cheap in the US or Europe)

 

Second advantage : As it's a cluster of different parts, you can buy them separately, and not all part will go ajar. PC-Engine systems are very reliable. So far I haven't heard of issues with the IFU-30 itself, so only the CD-ROM2 unit is susceptible of more failure.

But it mean that you can still play Hu-Card games.

 

Third advantage : the IFU-30 come with a standard RCA yellow/red/white output. No need to chase for special cables, no issues with cracked solder joints on the DIN plug ( a common issue on Duo/DuoR consoles, even if that's an easy fix).

 

Of course it's all not bright.

The CD-ROM2 unit in there is the weak point. most untested/nonworking unit you'll find will have a dead, rotten plastic gear. It's an easy fix, but if you aren't willing to get your hands in there, well this isn't the best solution if you don't know anyone to do it.

Other time, the laser itself can be dead, and you have no other solution than replacing it.

The CD-ROM unit also can suffer from bad caps. Insofar, I bough three of them (one for me, one for a friend, and the third was in a IFU-30) One had a dead gear, one was working right out of the box, and one won't work. So it's a bit of a gamble here.

But overall, I think that the advantages are in the favor of that solution.

After that, it's our choice. Technically, all solution will provide the same gameplay experience. With the System cards, the IFU-30 will play all the CD games that the Duo and DuoR can.

The only considerations then are the cost, reliability issues, and aesthetical issues.

Most people dislike the black and purple boxy look of the Duo. Some dislike the 80's clunky look of the IFU-30 setup.

It's all choices and money in the end.

Edited February 16, 2016 by CatPix

[+GoldenWheels]

game_escape, Keith Courage over on PCenginefx sells modded PC Engine Duos (and briefcase setups, as Pix pictures above). I was out the door with a full recap, shipping, s-video mod, region mod, and moving the composite jacks to to the rear, for just under $350 as I recall. I am very happy with mine.

 

He sells the briefcases for slightly cheaper too.

[game_escape]

game_escape, Keith Courage over on PCenginefx sells modded PC Engine Duos (and briefcase setups, as Pix pictures above). I was out the door with a full recap, shipping, s-video mod, region mod, and moving the composite jacks to to the rear, for just under $350 as I recall. I am very happy with mine.

 

He sells the briefcases for slightly cheaper too.

Thanks. I am going to check that out.

[Prosystemsearch]

What is the reason as to why the US Turboduo is very frequently so expensive? I can understand the Pioneer laseractive PCE module and the Laseractive itself being super expensive, but why the US TurboDuo got to be so expensive than the separate CD add-on? Plus, I say a for sale copy of legendary Axe: for the asking price of $139.00! WOW!

[CatPix]

Because the TG16 sold poorly in the US, and retrogaming brought back an interest in the console, so prices rise up.

And the Turbo sold even less because the CD games failed to sell in the US. There was no interesti in getting an expensive Turbo Duo when there were lots of used TG16 on the market with games on Hu-card making the larger bulk of the sales/offer.

 

In Japan, the PC-Engine sold like cakes ; basically, in the US, the leader was the Super Nintendo, and the Genesis was just behind. In Japan, the PC-Engine was second behind the Super Nintendo and the Megadrive was the least selling... Tho, not as badly as the TG16 did in the US.

 

As for CD games in Japan, NEC figures estimates that in 1996, HALF of the PC Engine owners were equipped with a CD-able setup, counting both the CD-Rom²; Super CD-Rom² and the Duo sales in account.

It's easily the most successful add-on for any console ever sold.

Edited February 17, 2016 by CatPix

[+Black_Tiger]

I always passed on Turbo Ys because when it came out, I had already finished Ys on the SMS and had no desire to play through it again. 'Course now it's been decades so heck, i should check it out.

 

Aside from the obvious graphics/sound, Is there any major difference (layout, mazes, etc.) between the two games? Ys always confuses me with all the versions.. I checked it out on Steam for example and it seemed like a completely different game with dialogue, map & locations.

The Ys I mazes are inverted. I believe that the SMS version is the one which differs from the original. Turbo Ys I is rebalanced and much less of a grind. More importantly, you can set the game speed higher and move very fast. Things like the Darm Tower pillar you have to smash have unique visuals.

 

With all of the extra details, voice acting, redbook music, talking heads, etc, it's already a dramatic difference.

 

But what really sets it apart from the SMS version is the inclusion of Ys II, which is ten times longer and has much more variety in every way.

[Austin]

What is the reason as to why the US Turboduo is very frequently so expensive? I can understand the Pioneer laseractive PCE module and the Laseractive itself being super expensive, but why the US TurboDuo got to be so expensive than the separate CD add-on? Plus, I say a for sale copy of legendary Axe: for the asking price of $139.00! WOW!

 

Because compared to the Japanese models, it is rare. I'm going to guess it probably sold in the same range of numbers as something like the USA Neo-Geo CD (less than 50,000 units is probably being super generous; I'm going to wager it was probably closer to half that).