"Revive1027" Order thread

[gilsaluki]

15 hours ago, Peri Noid said:

It's been years since this project was presented but... Are there any these still available? I'd like to buy at least one since the printer I bought has none at the time.

I ordered two.  Neither produced a good result.  One broke outright.  I wish there was a good one available.  I loved my 1027s ratta-tat-tat sound.

[Peri Noid]

As years pass, better and better materials are available. Maybe it would be worth to retry with currently available materials? I know almost nothing about 3D printing so I may be wrong. But... :-)

[+skr]

I´ve ordered a small batch which probably will be available in about two weeks in the ABBUC Shop and cost about 15 Euro.

[Peri Noid]

Can you post a notification here? Thanks!

[+skr]

2 hours ago, Peri Noid said:

Can you post a notification here? Thanks!

Yes, of course. I will update this thread simultaneously with the thread at the ABBUC-Forums:

 

http://www.abbuc.de/community/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=10455

[curtludwig]

Dang, thats tempting. I do miss my 1027. I remember my teachers being amazed that I had "typed out the project on a typewriter" while my fellow students had to deal with dot matrix from a Mac...

[+Mr Robot]

I've been thinking about this. I wonder if it would be possible to make these in multi materials, make the letterforms harder and the band softer. It might last longer that way. There are lots of different hardnesses available now, it should be possible to get something pliable but still hard wearing. I know @MacRorie has a multi material printer, it might be an interesting project to develop.

 

[gilsaluki]

I would certainly be in for a replacement. The last effort fell far short.

[tschak909]

23 hours ago, gilsaluki said:

I would certainly be in for a replacement. The last effort fell far short.

@gilsaluki I have been trying to get in touch with you, for weeks, to try and get the dynacomp software shipped to someone so it could be preserved. Please get back to us.

-Thom

[Pug]

Are you still producing these?

[BillC]

6 hours ago, Pug said:

Are you still producing these?

See post #128.

[+Mr Robot]

Some time in September @skr said on the Abbuc forums that he still hadn't received anything. Nothing since. It's looking like it didn't work out for some reason.

 

[Malek256]

Gee, that is too bad it didn't work out. It sure was a fantastic effort! Seems that the big issue is the durability of the 3D printed silicone? Perhaps an interim step could be done to take the 3D printed silicone then make a mold and use a higher durability silicone from it? This would also enable making of extras over time?

[+DavidMil]

If anyone ever makes some more of these Print heads I would love to order three or four.  Or I guess I could start over with making them myself...

 

DavidMil

[Irgendwer]

If someone really likes to invest some money and is keen to experiment, this could be a way to go:

 

* buy an (M)SLA 3D-Printer (the resolution/precision is better than what you've got out of the omnibus order)

  Thanks to the relatively small part, which also fits into the building space of the cheaper models costs for the printer is about $ 300-500)

* buy flexible resin and high endurance resin (~ $ 100-200)

* experiment (print, print, print) & pray to find the right mixture between endurance and flexibility

 

I don't have the time and don't like to have the fumes in my home, but the results would be interesting...

[jjost]

6 hours ago, Irgendwer said:

If someone really likes to invest some money and is keen to experiment, this could be a way to go:

 

* buy an (M)SLA 3D-Printer (the resolution/precision is better than what you've got out of the omnibus order)

  Thanks to the relatively small part, which also fits into the building space of the cheaper models costs for the printer is about $ 300-500)

* buy flexible resin and high endurance resin (~ $ 100-200)

* experiment (print, print, print) & pray to find the right mixture between endurance and flexibility

 

I don't have the time and don't like to have the fumes in my home, but the results would be interesting...

I have an SLA and based on my experience the standard resin would work well for a decent amount of casting cycles. I also pulled the STL for the printhead and created a mold for it. IN looking I found a marine type silicon material with some durometer values that look like they might work. I was thinking about trying this over the Christmas break this year. 

jjost_mold_for_revive_atari_1027.stl

[Irgendwer]

On 11/12/2021 at 6:47 PM, jjost said:

I have an SLA and based on my experience the standard resin would work well for a decent amount of casting cycles. I also pulled the STL for the printhead and created a mold for it.

Isn't there the possibility to directly print the rubber via SLA (positive) whithout going the extra cycle of a mold?

[jjost]

1 hour ago, Irgendwer said:

Isn't there the possibility to directly print the rubber via SLA (positive) whithout going the extra cycle of a mold?

By all means.  I'm just taking the casting approach since the flexible resins I saw "out there" and have used before appear to not be what what is required for the consistency of print head, and, I don't want to go through the nasty effort of mixing resins and trying/experimenting with them to get the right durometer even with the breather element that I need to wear when doing so since most resins are very irritating to the lungs. So I want to use the SLA a minimum number of times and be freed from that for the "experimenting" efforts. I'll share what I find on my approach. 

[+x=usr(1536)]

Would a multipart assembly be feasible?

 

What's running through my head is a metal band composed of links.  Each link has a letter block attached to it.  With enough movement in the links, it should be possible for the hammer to be able to knock the letter block into the paper in the same manner as the melting rubber ones.

 

Downsides are possible increased noise, finding band material that's a suitable size, and unknown longevity.  On the plus side, it opens up the possibility of making this a rebuildable item by just swapping out letter blocks.

[jjost]

4 hours ago, jjost said:

By all means.  I'm just taking the casting approach since the flexible resins I saw "out there" and have used before appear to not be what what is required for the consistency of print head, and, I don't want to go through the nasty effort of mixing resins and trying/experimenting with them to get the right durometer even with the breather element that I need to wear when doing so since most resins are very irritating to the lungs. So I want to use the SLA a minimum number of times and be freed from that for the "experimenting" efforts. I'll share what I find on my approach. 

I updated these after looking over my previous attempt. This gets rid of overhands and also *I think* fixes the ends so they don't need to be pulled out from being semi trapped within the mold. 

jjost_revive_1027_bottom_mold_v1.1.stl jjost_revive_1027_top_mold_v1.1.stl

[clh333]

On 10/31/2017 at 5:32 PM, Irgendwer said:

Please read the following details first before placing an order here!

 

Revive1027ManualV1.1.pdf 7.58 MB · 696 downloads

Revive1027HandbuchV1.1.pdf 7.58 MB · 468 downloads

Thank you for this information; I had no idea how to disassemble the print head.

[clh333]

15 hours ago, jjost said:

I updated these after looking over my previous attempt. This gets rid of overhands and also *I think* fixes the ends so they don't need to be pulled out from being semi trapped within the mold. 

jjost_revive_1027_bottom_mold_v1.1.stl 140.71 kB · 4 downloads jjost_revive_1027_top_mold_v1.1.stl 1.31 MB · 4 downloads

Having read this thread quickly I may have missed a few important details but I applaud your efforts toward creating a replacement print head.  I think the mold-cast approach must have been taken by the original manufacturer. 

 

If I understand correctly the problem has been that a material soft enough to "flex" as required for positioning and striking is too soft to make a clean impression or to last under repeated use.  Some of the respondents have suggested a two-layer casting, with a harder material for the typeface and a softer backing material; that technique seems appealing.  Getting the right "mix" might require experimentation but it seems to be the key to the problem.

 

I don't have a 3-D printer and I have very little experience with 3-D printing but my impression is that the technology is still in its infancy, with resolution still relatively coarse.  I do have experience in the graphics industry, however, and am old enough to recall the Linotype machine, which was used to cast-in-place "galleys" of type for printing presses.  I think a Linotype machine could cast the typeface array represented by your mold with high precision.  The "product" is a solid chunk of lead.  Once created this array could be used to create a precision mold into which the individual letters were cast using a hard material.  The typeface mold would then be scraped and a second layer of flexible material bonded on top.

 

There is no reason to believe that the process couldn't produce a sheet full of such castings in one operation, making the cost-per-item relatively low.  I still know nothing about the ink roller but hopefully someone else does.

-CH-