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9 hours ago, OLD CS1 said:

Not dogging Linux as I use it, myself, though infrequently, but how will that resolve the problem of software you like to use dropping functionality as part of the required continuing subscription, or making some functions cost more?

 

AutoDesk used to pull that bullsnot with AutoCAD and Revit.  I cannot recall what year it was, but my customer was doing render farming with Revit for a couple of years, then on the next subscription renewal the farming was made a higher tier subscription.  If you did not renew, you only got to continue using your current version for a period of time before it stopped working (or lost functionality.)  If you did renew you were required to upgrade all installations as the previous version would stop receiving authorizations.

That's way above my pay grade. 

I think however that we are a time where S/W has a pretty big noose dangling over everyone's head. I suspect once the organic business growth slows to 0,

subscriptions will be everywhere or the advertising model is used. Corporate cannot tolerate no revenue growth.

 

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Two models of soldering iron you'll often hear recommended for hobby work are the "classic" Weller WLC100 and Hakko FX-888D. The Weller model is power-adjustable (not the same as temperature-adjustable) unlike the old Radio Shack irons, is more than adequate for working on boards like the SAMS, and is fairly inexpensive. I used that Weller for several years, can definitely recommend, although I've upgraded again recently.

 

The Hakko model has a leg up over the Weller, as the FX-888D is temperature adjustable. This particular Hakko isn't a great deal in 2022, though, and is outperformed by a long shot by Chinese-manufacture soldering irons like the Miniware TS100/TS80P (which are less expensive, and still reasonably well made). Also note that the market is flooded with counterfeit FX-888Ds.

 

If you think you might get into slightly more "involved" soldering projects later, the Hakko FX-951 is pretty nice (that's what I'm using now). Unlike the WLC100/FX-888D, the FX-951 and the aforementioned Miniware models have combined heater+tip setups, and that allows the soldering iron to heat up waaayyyy faster (especially helpful when soldering to large components).

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I use a second-hand Pace PPS-25A for most of my soldering work. I've used it to solder the components onto several thousand circuit cards over the last 12 years or so. Pace products are not cheap, but they are nearly indestructible. . .I've never even had to change the tip on my iron--it is still as good as the day I installed it 12 years ago (I make sure to always take good care of it too, so the longevity is a combination of good care and industrial-strength parts).

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20 hours ago, AwkwardPotato said:

Two models of soldering iron you'll often hear recommended for hobby work are the "classic" Weller WLC100 and Hakko FX-888D

 

FX-888D—outperformed …by Chinese-manufacture soldering irons like the Miniware TS100/TS80P 

I checked out the Weller 100 you mentioned. Interesting take vs the FX-888 on value.

 

 I’ll do more comparison to the entry level Weller (at $50) , next time somebody asks me for a recommendation. 

 

(But there are often sales on the blue pencil Weller 1010,  in the $100+ price range. Which I hear lasts a lifetime!)

 


@Switch1995 You will get a tremendous boost in ease and quality by spending the money, $100-$150 . Go for it! I wish I had known when I built SAMS and FlashROM with the Radio Shack type. 
 


I’m well-served by my FX-888. (10 years at least.)
 

But the one add-on that made the biggest difference in my soldering is the K-tip or knife tip.  I rarely use any other now. 

 

The K-tip  does drag-soldering beautifully. I get 10 pins done in one smooth motion. (Thru-hole.) Its extra mass holds  heat, plus a goodly amount of solder.

 

Amanda does the surface mount parts with the K tip by drag-soldering. (up to TQFP-100 like FPGA) Better than hot air and paste. 


So regardless of brand, I would add a K-tip.

 

Quote

Hakko FX-951 and the aforementioned Miniware models have combined heater+tip setups, and that allows the soldering iron to heat up waaayyyy faster


@AwkwardPotato

With very fine tips, my FX-888 doesn’t deliver much heat.

 

Does that disadvantage go away when you have the  heating element in the tip?

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, FarmerPotato said:

With very fine tips, my FX-888 doesn’t deliver much heat.

 

Does that disadvantage go away when you have the  heating element in the tip?

Having used the FX-888 in school and the FX-951 at home, both with fine tips, there's for sure an improvement when using the 951's composite tip. That said, it's not a night-and-day improvement. IMO where the composite tips really shine is e.g. soldering the tabs on beefy surface-mount power transistors to copper pours with arrays of thermal vias.

 

Just for the record, not trying to imply that the FX-888 is a bad soldering iron. My only qualm with it is that it's remained at the same ~$110 price point for years and years now -- the competition has come a long way ;)

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1 hour ago, AwkwardPotato said:

IMO where the composite tips really shine is e.g. soldering the tabs on beefy surface-mount power transistors to copper pours with arrays of thermal vias.

Meant to specify, "where the larger composite tips really shine." Fine tips, some improvement. Chisel/bevel/knife, great improvement.

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7 minutes ago, HOME AUTOMATION said:

I'm guessing, these were the portable models...

portmods.thumb.jpg.d5b123bca17671cda85cbbc994eed9de.jpg

But, where do I connect these?:music:

Are they battery or AC powered.

 

If they are battery you will need the A battery (filaments, 6V or 12 V typically) and the B battery 90V typically. 

If they are very old they even need a C battery (bias) but that's just 1.5 V. 

 

My grandmother had a battery tube radio in the house that they used until the early 1960s. 

 

Never did git that new-fangled 'lectricity into the house. What wouldja need it fer? :) 

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