The Official Turbografx 16 Thread!

[empsolo]

I was playing Neutopia II on the PC Engine for the past week. It's a very fun Zelda clone that isn't as good as the any of the 2d Zelda games but is enjoyable nevertheless in its own right. That's not to say it isn't without its problems.

 

The last boss is pure RNG. After several tries, I waved my white flag and quit. But since I did save, I might revisit this game in a few months.

[mikey.shake]

Hi all! Mrs. Shake surprised me today by acquiring for us not one, not two, but three new consoles for the home thanks to a nice shop owner and a complete lack of self-control. And chief among them is a TurboGrafx-16. I’ve always wanted one based only on few memories of playing it, but Mrs. S had one in her house for a while as a kid, and was fond of a few of the titles -- Bonk's Adventure most of all. I’m a shooter fan and have really enjoyed the TG-16 examples that I’ve tried via emulation.

The store threw in Victory Run because they’re nice folks, just so we’d have something to play on it right away. S’alright. Other than that, they were out of HuCards or TurboChips or whichever you’d prefer, and stops at two other local retro gaming shops turned up nothing at the moment.

I’m semi-familiar with the basics of console variants (PC Engine, TurboDuo, CoreGrafx, CD attachments, etc.), and hardware region incompatibility (Japanese cards don’t work in US console and vice versa). So I’m not going in blind, and as a player of mostly 2nd-4th gen games, it’s right in my retro sweet spot. But I have a few questions for you experts:

1) I’m planning on making my own composite cable via the instruction on this page (thanks, CGQ!). Does anyone have any advice they might add or concerns I should consider?

2) My longtime plan for the TG16 has been “get a console, get a flash cart, don’t spend a ton of money on games”. The Turbo Everdrive being what it is, I’ve heard some rumors that the V2 might have some bugs that the V1 doesn’t. Sometimes I have trouble finding the current public opinion on this kind of thing, so what’s the latest on this issue? Has the V2.4 fixed whatever these issues might have been?

3) Assuming I get a Turbo Everdrive, does anyone have a recommendation for getting a case?

4) The CD system and the attendant peripherals are something I’m keeping on the back burner. I wanted to get the system for the hardware and the wide variety of HuCard games I could play via a flash cart. But I can’t deny that I’ve considered it. I realize that the best option to play CD games is usually a TurboDuo, but considering I wanted a US TG16 for nostalgia purposes and now I’m invested that deep, what is the best avenue for someone in my position? (It’s prohibitively expensive for us -- I’m just curious as to what to keep an eye out for.)

5) Despite going the flash cart route, I’d like to have a few (3-5) HuCard games in cases on my shelf, just as a physical example to go with the system. Obviously, prices on the games can be quite high to a 2600 collector. Bonk is on my short list, we’ll pick up Keith Courage for Mrs. S’ nostalgia fix, and I’d like a shooter or two. Blazing Lazers, maybe, but that's hitting $50 at the moment. What are some “semi-classic” TG16/PCE games down at the bottom of the price chart in today's market that are still fun to play, and might be nice to put on my shelf?

Thanks in advance, and thanks for all the info in this thread. Good stuff.

[+Black_Tiger]

 

Hi all! Mrs. Shake surprised me today by acquiring for us not one, not two, but three new consoles for the home thanks to a nice shop owner and a complete lack of self-control. And chief among them is a TurboGrafx-16. I’ve always wanted one based only on few memories of playing it, but Mrs. S had one in her house for a while as a kid, and was fond of a few of the titles -- Bonk's Adventure most of all. I’m a shooter fan and have really enjoyed the TG-16 examples that I’ve tried via emulation.

The store threw in Victory Run because they’re nice folks, just so we’d have something to play on it right away. S’alright. Other than that, they were out of HuCards or TurboChips or whichever you’d prefer, and stops at two other local retro gaming shops turned up nothing at the moment.

I’m semi-familiar with the basics of console variants (PC Engine, TurboDuo, CoreGrafx, CD attachments, etc.), and hardware region incompatibility (Japanese cards don’t work in US console and vice versa). So I’m not going in blind, and as a player of mostly 2nd-4th gen games, it’s right in my retro sweet spot. But I have a few questions for you experts:

1) I’m planning on making my own composite cable via the instruction on this page (thanks, CGQ!). Does anyone have any advice they might add or concerns I should consider?

2) My longtime plan for the TG16 has been “get a console, get a flash cart, don’t spend a ton of money on games”. The Turbo Everdrive being what it is, I’ve heard some rumors that the V2 might have some bugs that the V1 doesn’t. Sometimes I have trouble finding the current public opinion on this kind of thing, so what’s the latest on this issue? Has the V2.4 fixed whatever these issues might have been?

3) Assuming I get a Turbo Everdrive, does anyone have a recommendation for getting a case?

4) The CD system and the attendant peripherals are something I’m keeping on the back burner. I wanted to get the system for the hardware and the wide variety of HuCard games I could play via a flash cart. But I can’t deny that I’ve considered it. I realize that the best option to play CD games is usually a TurboDuo, but considering I wanted a US TG16 for nostalgia purposes and now I’m invested that deep, what is the best avenue for someone in my position? (It’s prohibitively expensive for us -- I’m just curious as to what to keep an eye out for.)

5) Despite going the flash cart route, I’d like to have a few (3-5) HuCard games in cases on my shelf, just as a physical example to go with the system. Obviously, prices on the games can be quite high to a 2600 collector. Bonk is on my short list, we’ll pick up Keith Courage for Mrs. S’ nostalgia fix, and I’d like a shooter or two. Blazing Lazers, maybe, but that's hitting $50 at the moment. What are some “semi-classic” TG16/PCE games down at the bottom of the price chart in today's market that are still fun to play, and might be nice to put on my shelf?

Thanks in advance, and thanks for all the info in this thread. Good stuff.

 

 

If price/money are a concern, Turbo stuff is always going to be more expensive in the short and long run compared to PC Engine.

 

2: The only real issue with V2 Turbo Everdrives is they sometimes don't work correctly on console with a region mod. As long as you're using it on a stock TG-16, you won't have any problems.

 

3: The best case is a standard HuCard case. Aaron Nanto sell new 3D printed cases in several colors on the PC Engine FX forum. The cheapest method is to sacrifice a cheap Tuirbo/PCE game case.

 

4: The TurboDuo is an overpriced collectors item, like most Turbo goods. You can get an identical PC Engine Duo for half the price and it will play 99% of the Turbo/PCE library out-of-box and hundreds more HuCards than a Turbo system. Of course a Turbo Everdrive neutralizes that, but if you want to play the handful of amazing Arcade Card CD games, all you'd need is the cheaper Arcade Card DUO and not mess around with convertors or mods. A PC Engine Duo or the more reliable (if unserviced) Duo R/RX systems can be bought for the same price as the bulky Turbo-CD. So if your primary interested is playing games and not wasting money, your next purchase after a Turbo Everdrive should be a PC Engine Duo.

 

5: PC Engine HuCard games are usually more or less identical to the Turbo versions or language is not an issue. But they are also often $5 - $20 CIC with much nicer label and cover art, while a fugly Turbo version can cost $40 - $150. So if you're interested in the novelty of owning some HuCards, you're much better off with PC Engine games in every way.

[empsolo]

Wouldn't a better option be simply to pick up Turbo/PCE games on the Wii VC. It's a lot cheaper and Rondo of blood alone will set you back 3 figures at least.

 

Sent from my KFAPWI using Tapatalk

[Gentlegamer]

Wouldn't a better option be simply to pick up Turbo/PCE games on the Wii VC. It's a lot cheaper and Rondo of blood alone will set you back 3 figures at least.

 

Sent from my KFAPWI using Tapatalk

 

 

Don't pay for emulators and ROMs.

 

You may play for free on PC using the excellent Ootake emulator.

[empsolo]

Don't pay for emulators and ROMs.

 

You may play for free on PC using the excellent Ootake emulator.

I don't know. My conscience tells me it's wrong to engage in piracy. Especially when companies are offering legal ways to have roms. Edited May 19, 2016 by empsolo

[Andromeda Stardust]

Got a sweet Magical Chase repro on the way from a "guy" that hooked me up at pcenginefx.com. Also possibly getting a 2-in-1 Neutopia as well.

Hi all! Mrs. Shake surprised me today by acquiring for us not one, not two, but three new consoles for the home thanks to a nice shop owner and a complete lack of self-control. And chief among them is a TurboGrafx-16. I’ve always wanted one based only on few memories of playing it, but Mrs. S had one in her house for a while as a kid, and was fond of a few of the titles -- Bonk's Adventure most of all. I’m a shooter fan and have really enjoyed the TG-16 examples that I’ve tried via emulation.

The store threw in Victory Run because they’re nice folks, just so we’d have something to play on it right away. S’alright. Other than that, they were out of HuCards or TurboChips or whichever you’d prefer, and stops at two other local retro gaming shops turned up nothing at the moment.

I’m semi-familiar with the basics of console variants (PC Engine, TurboDuo, CoreGrafx, CD attachments, etc.), and hardware region incompatibility (Japanese cards don’t work in US console and vice versa). So I’m not going in blind, and as a player of mostly 2nd-4th gen games, it’s right in my retro sweet spot. But I have a few questions for you experts:

1) I’m planning on making my own composite cable via the instruction on this page (thanks, CGQ!). Does anyone have any advice they might add or concerns I should consider?

2) My longtime plan for the TG16 has been “get a console, get a flash cart, don’t spend a ton of money on games”. The Turbo Everdrive being what it is, I’ve heard some rumors that the V2 might have some bugs that the V1 doesn’t. Sometimes I have trouble finding the current public opinion on this kind of thing, so what’s the latest on this issue? Has the V2.4 fixed whatever these issues might have been?

3) Assuming I get a Turbo Everdrive, does anyone have a recommendation for getting a case?

4) The CD system and the attendant peripherals are something I’m keeping on the back burner. I wanted to get the system for the hardware and the wide variety of HuCard games I could play via a flash cart. But I can’t deny that I’ve considered it. I realize that the best option to play CD games is usually a TurboDuo, but considering I wanted a US TG16 for nostalgia purposes and now I’m invested that deep, what is the best avenue for someone in my position? (It’s prohibitively expensive for us -- I’m just curious as to what to keep an eye out for.)

5) Despite going the flash cart route, I’d like to have a few (3-5) HuCard games in cases on my shelf, just as a physical example to go with the system. Obviously, prices on the games can be quite high to a 2600 collector. Bonk is on my short list, we’ll pick up Keith Courage for Mrs. S’ nostalgia fix, and I’d like a shooter or two. Blazing Lazers, maybe, but that's hitting $50 at the moment. What are some “semi-classic” TG16/PCE games down at the bottom of the price chart in today's market that are still fun to play, and might be nice to put on my shelf?

Thanks in advance, and thanks for all the info in this thread. Good stuff.

1) I bought an adapter from someone on Etsy for $35 last year. Sadly it looks like they are either sold out or no longer in business. Pity, plugs right into the expansion port for composite output. Great if you don't have plans for an overpriced CD unit or turbobooster. I would be very weary of directly wiring pin headers to the 69-pin expansion port. If your cable gets "yanked," it could damage the connector.

 

2) Everdrive is highly recommended given the cost of games on the secondhand market. I have a v1.1 Everdrive and it's amazing. It supports nearly all of the games with the exception of system cards and a couple outliers like Populous. It even supports SFII with bankswitching. There are some compatibility issues with initial runs of the v2 Everdrives and Turbografx with popular region mods, but many of those bugs have since been ironed out. Krikzz will not offer technical support for region modded systems due to the sheer variety of mods out there. The new Everdrive v2 also has built in RAM support for Populous, certain system card BIOS, and potential future homebrew applications.

 

3) There is a guy doing custom 3D printed cases for the Everdrive. Make sure you buy the correct version for your Everdrive. Here are the links:

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/7J84PC7B2/ted-v1-standard-shell?li=shareProduct

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GWWERQCTJ/ted-v1-super-low-profile-shell?li=shareProduct

https://www.shapeways.com/product/JUGLC2MWD/ted-v2-low-profile-shell?li=shareProduct

https://www.shapeways.com/product/KEWY79SQB/ted-v2-type-duo-shell?li=shareProduct

https://www.shapeways.com/product/M2ELAUQAC/ted-v2-type-duo-r-shell?li=shareProduct

 

I would recommend spray painting a clear satin overcoat on the SLS nylon part (regardless of what color you buy) before installing it so it does not shed powder or collect grime. Custom shells are a great way to protect your system against accidental ESD damage caused by touching the PCB components and the Shapeways parts are still very affordable.

 

I got my "standard bulky" shell in green to match the PCB. I think it came out nice. There is a guy on Nintendoage that does stickers...

http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=6&threadid=134786

 

4) CD systems are a bit spendy and require maintenance and recaps to get fixed. I have little desire to spend big moneys on a refurbished unit. That said, the Japanese Duos are far cheaper than the US CD systems and CD titles lack the region lock of cards. A combo between a US Turbografx and PC Engine Duo would give you access to nearly the entire library of Hucard and CD titles. I have heard there is no antipiracy protection on the games so expensive games may be burned to CD-R. For maximum compatibility, you will need 650Mb CD-Rs which are getting quite hard to find nowadays.

 

5) Bonk 1 & 2, Alien Crush and Devil Crush (if you're a pinball fan) are all highly recommended and still relatively affordable especially the first of each series. Alien and Bonk 1 are pretty cheap still. Also check out Galaga '90 if you are a fan of old school style single screen arcade SHMUPs. Keith Courage is the Super Mario / Duck Hunt of Turbografx collecting so should be easy to procure. Blazing Lazers is going up in value so if you wanna get in on it you should act now even if it means putting the rest of your collection on hold for a bit. I wanna give a shout out for Blazing Lazers; it is IMO hands down the best SHMUP ever made, and the difficulty, while challenging, is not so punishingly difficult like many later games. You will progress in the game with practice. Bear in mind by no means does this mean it isn't challenging or frantic, but quite simply has one of the best powerup systems ever, and never feels unfair like many later "bullet hell" games, ie where one death on the final boss puts you at the beginning of the stage. If you "die" during a boss fight, Blazing Lazers only sets you back just far enough to collect come good powerups before having another go around. You also earn an extra ship every 100,000 pts and can get gold orbs if you destroy powerups by repeatedly shooting them. Collecting gold orbs award you instant respawns, extremely helpful in boss fights...

 

Lastly regarding imports, I would like to add that PCe games tend to be much more affordable compared to US Turbografx, with prices comparable to Super Famicom and Mega Drive. You cannot play Japanese cards on a US system or visa versa without a pin adapter, but the PC Engine Core Grafx II has built in stereo AV output (pinout is similar to Genesis model 1 but in stereo, and you can fabricate your own set of AV cables by splicing a common 5-pin DIN MIDI cable to shielded RCA) and is compatible with the same AC adapters as Turbografx and Genesis Model 1, so if you get a loose Coregrafx II, it won't be too hard to get started into the wonderful world of PC Engine imports. They are typically sell loose for a bit cheaper than the import adapters. Bear in mind the import adapters will only let you play Japanese games on a US system since the Japanese consoles contain a copy protection system the US consoles lack.

[mikey.shake]

Thanks for the info, everyone! Not only will it help me out, but hopefully other people who find themselves in my situation can use this thread as a resource.

 

I realized when I started looking that a TG16 would be less versatile than a PC Engine or a PC Duo. I have some nostalgia for the US console itself, which was part of my decision. In addition to that, though, Mrs. S actually had a TG16 in her house growing up, so she has some attachment to that model of the console -- which influenced our choice. She didn't even realize Bonk was available on other systems 'til years later. So, going in, I was prepared for a more limited library due to my adamance on the US model. However, since a Turbo Everdrive was pretty much already in the cards, I wasn't too worried about HuCard compatibility.

 

Speaking of the T.E., I'm glad to hear that there are cases available (thanks for the links). I seemed to remember a few months ago reading that people weren't able to fit the V2 in the V1 shell, so it's good to know I can keep mine safe once I pick one up.

 

As far as CD games are concerned, while I love them, I don't think it's worth it to me right now to go down that road. I tend to shy away from disc-based retro systems for ease of maintenance in general. Carts I can handle. When deciding to go the TG16 path over the PCE/Duo, I essentially resigned myself to the concept that "HuCard" and all the PCE/TG16 CD games are essentially two separate platforms. Though, if I finally get a PC-Duo ®, it'll be nice that it can do both (with the right setup).

 

I'm definitely going to grab the few cards I want on my shelf before too long. Since I never had one of these back in the day, I don't have the fetishistic attachment to the physicality of that particular "cart" like I do with the 2600 and NES. Now that I've got Victory Run and Keith Courage In Alpha Zones, I'm thinking I'm only going to pick up 2-3 more (including Mrs. S' favorite, Bonk, and maybe Blazing Lazers if I can round up the dough for it before it jumps in price), have a nice little stack on the shelf, and let the Everdrive do the heavy lifting.

 

I definitely like the look of that Etsy adapter, and wish they were still in business! The RF jack on this unit is a little wobbly, feels like a bad solder joint. The RF output isn't bad but I'll probably rig up that composite DIY cable until I can find something better. Thanks for the tip on the potential for yanking... I might tape some things down to try and keep it safe.

 

Anyway, thanks again for all the great info, and I'm looking forward to following this thread closely!

[+GoldenWheels]

Jeez Mysterious Song is an an old school RPG for sure. I got killed in my second battle.

 

Restarted, got to second town, got Tiger in my party...died in third battle. Apparently I have to grind right outside the first town! That's OK, I may be one of the rare few who enjoy grinding/trying to find ways to break grinding.

[+Black_Tiger]

I have a v1.1 Everdrive and it's amazing. It supports nearly all of the games with the exception of system cards and a couple outliers like Populous.

Only the Super CD and Arcade Card CD system cards have ram and their rons cannot be used as-is on Everdrives. The 1.0 - 2.2 system cards work fine on Everdrives, because all they are is roms. So you can play Altered Beast without having to hunt down a 1.0 card.

 

Elmer on pcenginefx also made a custom Super CD system card rom that makes use of the ram on the v2 Everdrive. So it can be used to play Super CD games.

 

Games Express system cards also do not contain ram. But the ones made for Super CD still can only be played on Duo and Super CD-ROM systems.

 

So a v2 Everdrive can be used to play 99% of the CD library.

[7800fan]

V1 cannot do Populous either but it seems to run on V2. Although if you liked Populous, you'd prefer the CD version.

[mikey.shake]

I read through the thread and couldn't find a specific answer, and YouTube videos aren't consistent. So...

 

"HUGH card" or "HOO card"?

 

I always assumed the "Hu" was for "Hudson", and "HUH-card" just doesn't seem right.

 

(*ducks head and runs for cover, remembering the GIF/GIF Wars of 2013*)

 

[EDIT: OK, I just thought of another, ACTUAL question for you experts, so instead of two posts in a row, I'll double down while I still have the chance!]

 

I was cruising the online auction site for prices on TurboBoosters, just curious. But I came across this (auction I am unaffiliated with): http://ebay.to/1sDW9uN

 

For future generations, once that link disappears, here's a photo of the homemade TurboBooster replacement this seller is offering:

Which I think is a snazzy solution, especially since it seems to allow the back cover to sit somewhat like it's supposed to. (It's hard to tell if it's all the way on in the other listing photos, but it looks to be.)

 

If, say, some random person who was not too knowledgable about electronics components wanted to go to a local store or perhaps an online retailer and order THAT EXACT SAME FEMALE PIN PORT, what, pray tell, would you call that part so he could find it?

 

Thanks in advance, I love you all.

Edited May 28, 2016 by mikey.shake

[+Black_Tiger]

I read through the thread and couldn't find a specific answer, and YouTube videos aren't consistent. So...

 

"HUGH card" or "HOO card"?

 

I always assumed the "Hu" was for "Hudson", and "HUH-card" just doesn't seem right.

 

(*ducks head and runs for cover, remembering the GIF/GIF Wars of 2013*)

 

[EDIT: OK, I just thought of another, ACTUAL question for you experts, so instead of two posts in a row, I'll double down while I still have the chance!]

 

I was cruising the online auction site for prices on TurboBoosters, just curious. But I came across this (auction I am unaffiliated with): http://ebay.to/1sDW9uN

 

For future generations, once that link disappears, here's a photo of the homemade TurboBooster replacement this seller is offering:

Which I think is a snazzy solution, especially since it seems to allow the back cover to sit somewhat like it's supposed to. (It's hard to tell if it's all the way on in the other listing photos, but it looks to be.)

 

If, say, some random person who was not too knowledgable about electronics components wanted to go to a local store or perhaps an online retailer and order THAT EXACT SAME FEMALE PIN PORT, what, pray tell, would you call that part so he could find it?

 

Thanks in advance, I love you all.

 

The popular pronunciation is "Hew Card". Technically, CD games are "CD-ROMROM" games, but nobody actually says that.

 

The pcenginefx forum has an entire section dedicated to repairs and mods and has detailed guides for making your own AV connection to the EXP port and pretty much anything else you'd like to do.

 

The TG-16 isn't worth spending money on as a functional system, so you're best off just making your own AV cable or buying a PC Engine system cheap.

[mikey.shake]

 

The popular pronunciation is "Hew Card". Technically, CD games are "CD-ROMROM" games, but nobody actually says that.

 

 

Good to know, thanks. That's what I've gone with, glad I wasn't making a gaffe.

 

 

The pcenginefx forum has an entire section dedicated to repairs and mods and has detailed guides for making your own AV connection to the EXP port and pretty much anything else you'd like to do.

 

I've registered, but haven't been approved by a mod. I'll definitely poke around through their databases once I have some access to it. [EDIT: just got my approval email] [DOUBLE EDIT: Nope, that was just confirmation of my registration. ]

 

 

 

The TG-16 isn't worth spending money on as a functional system, so you're best off just making your own AV cable or buying a PC Engine system cheap.

 

 

Well, it's worth it to me to get a TG16 up and running, as I don't plan on buying a PC-Engine (or Duo) anytime soon. Hence my interest in building that AV cable. I'm just eager to make the most of the rig I've already got without buying another console.

 

I'd still very much love to find out the name of the part that was used for the console end of that homemade cable, so that once I'm into the pcenginefx forums, I'll know what search terms I'm looking for.

Edited May 28, 2016 by mikey.shake

[Andromeda Stardust]

I read through the thread and couldn't find a specific answer, and YouTube videos aren't consistent. So...

 

"HUGH card" or "HOO card"?

 

I always assumed the "Hu" was for "Hudson", and "HUH-card" just doesn't seem right.

 

(*ducks head and runs for cover, remembering the GIF/GIF Wars of 2013*)

 

[EDIT: OK, I just thought of another, ACTUAL question for you experts, so instead of two posts in a row, I'll double down while I still have the chance!]

 

I was cruising the online auction site for prices on TurboBoosters, just curious. But I came across this (auction I am unaffiliated with): http://ebay.to/1sDW9uN

 

For future generations, once that link disappears, here's a photo of the homemade TurboBooster replacement this seller is offering:

Which I think is a snazzy solution, especially since it seems to allow the back cover to sit somewhat like it's supposed to. (It's hard to tell if it's all the way on in the other listing photos, but it looks to be.)

 

If, say, some random person who was not too knowledgable about electronics components wanted to go to a local store or perhaps an online retailer and order THAT EXACT SAME FEMALE PIN PORT, what, pray tell, would you call that part so he could find it?

 

Thanks in advance, I love you all.

There is no commercially available pin header in 23x3 configuration. 20x2 are commonly available and used for IDE interface. There are also longer pin-headers available for other uses such as SCSI ribbon cables and other special uses available in double and single row. The adapters you see here can easily be built using super glue to join multiple rows of pin headers, and carefully cutting it off at 23 pins using a Dremel wheel or other cutting tool. Then it's only a matter of connecting wires to the appropriate locations.

[+Black_Tiger]

 

 

Good to know, thanks. That's what I've gone with, glad I wasn't making a gaffe.

 

 

 

I've registered, but haven't been approved by a mod. I'll definitely poke around through their databases once I have some access to it. [EDIT: just got my approval email] [DOUBLE EDIT: Nope, that was just confirmation of my registration. ]

 

 

 

 

Well, it's worth it to me to get a TG16 up and running, as I don't plan on buying a PC-Engine (or Duo) anytime soon. Hence my interest in building that AV cable. I'm just eager to make the most of the rig I've already got without buying another console.

 

I'd still very much love to find out the name of the part that was used for the console end of that homemade cable, so that once I'm into the pcenginefx forums, I'll know what search terms I'm looking for.

If you give me the user name you registered under I'll ask the only active mod to approve you.

[mikey.shake]

There is no commercially available pin header in 23x3 configuration. 20x2 are commonly available and used for IDE interface. There are also longer pin-headers available for other uses such as SCSI ribbon cables and other special uses available in double and single row. The adapters you see here can easily be built using super glue to join multiple rows of pin headers, and carefully cutting it off at 23 pins using a Dremel wheel or other cutting tool. Then it's only a matter of connecting wires to the appropriate locations.

 

 

This is great info, thanks. I have a Dremel and some super glue, and this seems like a feasible option for sure. Using Classic Gaming Quarterly's instructions on what I'm doing and combining it with a cobbled-together pin header ("pin header", THAT'S the term I guess I was looking for!), I think I might be able to make something like that work!

 

 

If you give me the user name you registered under I'll ask the only active mod to approve you.

 

 

Awesome! It's mikey.shake, same as here. Thank you, I really appreciate it!

[Andromeda Stardust]

 

 

This is great info, thanks. I have a Dremel and some super glue, and this seems like a feasible option for sure. Using Classic Gaming Quarterly's instructions on what I'm doing and combining it with a cobbled-together pin header ("pin header", THAT'S the term I guess I was looking for!), I think I might be able to make something like that work!

 

 

 

 

Awesome! It's mikey.shake, same as here. Thank you, I really appreciate it!

I never had trouble getting approved. I was able to contact the author of Atlantean through PCEngineFX forums last year and secure a custom Homebrew card. It's great although the 3D printing is a little wonky and the card works but is not a perfect fit in the slot.

 

Turbokon is currently making Hucard repros which is nice for collectors who cannot afford the high price of Turbochip games. I suspect that future runs of Atlantean will use those cards instead of the 3D printed ones.

 

Overall it's a great community and a lot of people will hook you up for cheaper than the current eBay rates.

[mikey.shake]

Okay, I'm on my way to victory with a few supplies in hand, but I still need to order some.

 

I'm going to make my own version of that female pin header assembly, and all I need are the headers, but wasn't sure which size. I've read that the TG16 uses the same expansion port as the PCE, and have seen reference to the PCE pins being 2.54mm, but not from a verifiable enough source that I'd bet the $10 on ordering the wrong part.

 

Would 2.54mm female pin headers be the right size for the TG16 expansion port, or is it a 2.0mm spacing (or something else)?

 

Thanks, I really appreciate it, everyone. You're making dreams come true here.

Edited May 29, 2016 by mikey.shake

[Andromeda Stardust]

I couldn't tell you without researching it. If you have some PCB perfboard laying around, or a good pair of calipers, you can measure the pin spacing directly.

 

= = = = = = = = = =

 

In other news, I installed the "backlight" mod on my Turbografx yesterday. Radio Shack robbed me blind on the 3mm square through-hole mount LED packages at $4.99 a piece! I needed eight but bought all seven they had in stock. I mounted the seven white LEDs on the perfboard like so:

::::[O][O][O]:[O][O][O]:[O]:::

This grouping made the most sense with three LEDs illuminating the orange "Turbo", three LEDs illuminating the yellow "Grafx" and one additional LED centered on the circular (16) symbol. Each LED is protected by it's own 100Ω resistor. The PCB had rails on it for traces and once I had the PCB cut down to size with a Dremel, and all of the square package LEDs and resistors mounted to the 0 and 5V power rails, and the whole PCB assembly coated with electric tape, I realized the PCB was too deep to fit properly inside the console. So in addition to routing out a hole in the Turbografx case for the LED lights, I also Dremeled out a rectangular area in the RF shielding. I also had to offset mount the PCB off the console plastic enclosure somehow so they didn't press against the backside of the logo. I did so by using scrap pieces left over from the PCB perfboard I had previously cut up and glued them down forming a platform to lift the LED assembly off the surface. The final assembly is secured in place by Velcro for ease of removal or readjustment if needed. I also used a thin line of super glue on the edge of the hole to permanently secure it. Finally I solder the lead wires to the assembly directly onto the 0V and 5V leads of the power regulator. Fortunately to much relief, everything fit back together securely when I reassembled the case. The glowing logo looks amazing when lit.

 

Pics forthcoming. Sadly I didn't take pics of the internals during the build as I didn't have camera handy, so that means in order to document the final mod, I'll have to dismantle the console again...

[Gentlegamer]

Turbokon is currently making Hucard repros which is nice for collectors who cannot afford the high price of Turbochip games. I suspect that future runs of Atlantean will use those cards instead of the 3D printed ones.

 

The AbCard will never die!

[rayik]

@ Mikey.Shake -

 

No need to make a cable. db-electronics offers an excellent A/V adapter. Four are listed in stock: http://db-electronics.ca/product/dbgrafx-booster-ttp/ It plugs into the back expansion port. You will not be able to use this and the cd add-on at same time as the cd plugs into the same expansion port. No problem if you do not have the cd add-on.

 

Recommendations: Everdrive either old v1 or newer v2. I have both and they both work fine. Google search "everdrive pack" and you'll be set with games to play.

 

Best video quality is from RGB. The booster in the link above has RGB amp built in. No need to mod tg16. If you use an everdrive v2 with RGB output, you'll get white screen at times. Just press reset on the everdrive (sometimes several times) and eventually it will work fine.

[Andromeda Stardust]

@ Mikey.Shake -

 

No need to make a cable. db-electronics offers an excellent A/V adapter. Four are listed in stock: http://db-electronics.ca/product/dbgrafx-booster-ttp/ It plugs into the back expansion port. You will not be able to use this and the cd add-on at same time as the cd plugs into the same expansion port. No problem if you do not have the cd add-on.

 

Recommendations: Everdrive either old v1 or newer v2. I have both and they both work fine. Google search "everdrive pack" and you'll be set with games to play.

 

Best video quality is from RGB. The booster in the link above has RGB amp built in. No need to mod tg16. If you use an everdrive v2 with RGB output, you'll get white screen at times. Just press reset on the everdrive (sometimes several times) and eventually it will work fine.

The db kit looks nice for sure. I wonder if there's any disadvantage to pulling the A/V straight from the pins, besides the volume being a few decibels lower?

 

Also the db have two composite outputs: one direct from the console (yellow jack) and one pulled from the RGB (Genesis 2 MiniDIN). If someone did a double blind test with these two composite sources on a CRT, I wonder if they could tell a difference?

 

I still think it's a neat device, even if I have no use for the RGB signals. If I didn't already have the 3D printed booster replacement from the defunct Etsy shop, I'd probably spring for one of those. One thing I think it really could use an enclosure. Maybe somebody 3D prints one. I wouldn't want the exposed circuit boards hanging off the back of my unit...

[rayik]

As far as a/v, I would not be surprised if there are audio and video amplifiers on the board.

 

Comparing composite to RGB, I'd expect RGB to be better. I know RGB output through a Framemeister xrgb onto a large panel HDTV is just stunning.

 

If you do not have a cd attachment, this is the easiest way to get RGB. If you do have the cd attachment, I'd recommend this kit, it's easy to install (compared to nesrgb): http://www.lowbudgetify.com/turbografx--pc-engine-rgb.html Additionally, add capacitors to fix jailbars as per Tim Wothington's instructions: http://etim.net.au/av-driver/pcebars/

The db kit looks nice for sure. I wonder if there's any disadvantage to pulling the A/V straight from the pins, besides the volume being a few decibels lower?

 

Also the db have two composite outputs: one direct from the console (yellow jack) and one pulled from the RGB (Genesis 2 MiniDIN). If someone did a double blind test with these two composite sources on a CRT, I wonder if they could tell a difference?

 

I still think it's a neat device, even if I have no use for the RGB signals. If I didn't already have the 3D printed booster replacement from the defunct Etsy shop, I'd probably spring for one of those. One thing I think it really could use an enclosure. Maybe somebody 3D prints one. I wouldn't want the exposed circuit boards hanging off the back of my unit...

As far as a/v, I would not be surprised if there are audio and video amplifiers on the board.

 

Comparing composite to RGB, I'd expect RGB to be better. I know RGB output through a Framemeister xrgb onto a large panel HDTV is just stunning.

 

If you do not have a cd attachment, this is the easiest way to get RGB. If you do have the cd attachment, I'd recommend this kit, it's easy to install (compared to nesrgb): http://www.lowbudgetify.com/turbografx--pc-engine-rgb.html Additionally, add capacitors to fix jailbars as per Tim Worthington's instructions: http://etim.net.au/av-driver/pcebars/

[Andromeda Stardust]

As far as a/v, I would not be surprised if there are audio and video amplifiers on the board.

 

Comparing composite to RGB, I'd expect RGB to be better. I know RGB output through a Framemeister xrgb onto a large panel HDTV is just stunning.

 

I'm aware the board has amps on it. The Turbografx audio pulled direct from the pins is only a few decibels lower than other consoles though I haven't compared the actual voltage peak-to-peak levels with other consoles as I don't have an oscilliscope. I've heard there is risk to the CPU pins if the audio is shorted or improperly connected, but if connected properly via RCA there is no issue. One could also add 100-ohm shunt resistances inline to protect these traces, which would only reduce the effective output by 1% on a proper receiver. Most devices have an input impedance of 10kΩ for audio and 75Ω for composite or RF video. Truthfully many devices have varying levels of analog audio output so it's a non-issue. My record player has softer output from it's built in pre-amp than a typical CD player.

 

Like the audio, the raw RGB needs a preamp, but unlike audio, you can't just adjust the volume to compensate. I am aware everyone sings the praises of RGB video but truthfully anyone living in the US with consumer grade display equipment, LCD or CRT, is not likely to have access to these signals without some form of conversion device. Even S-Video is unavailable on many budget CRTs or late model HDTVs. So for me and many gamers using old sets, it's about having two options: I can use the stock RF output on the side of the console, or tap the composite signal from the back.

 

I was specifically comparing the two composite signals available on the db turbobooster: the yelllow RCA jack on the back sourced straight from the console, and the composite pin on the miniDIN connector which is sourced from the RGB amp. Of course the S-Video or RGB will look better if your display device supports it. I'm wanting to compare specifically the two composite signals.